Problems in The Gambia - Journal no. 5
8th September to 15th September 2009
Katherine flies home
Hi
again to all,
I hope that this
E-mail finds you all well. This has been, I have to confess, a challenging
period plagued with problems.
It
all started well with Katherine flying back to the UK on the 8th September, landing
safely and immersing herself in an established routine back in London. At the
same time enrolling at the S.O.A.S. (School for Oriental and
African Studies) University, sorting out accommodation and a bank loan for
living expenses, etc.
City of Banjul flooded
Deanne
and I in the meantime, headed to Banjul courtesy of Alagi our driver, adviser
and friend to sort out collection of the charitable items that were due to
arrive that day.
Those that aren’t aware, Deanne
encouraged people in the UK to donate clothes and shoes no longer used for the
people of Ndongane. To be delivered, boxed and dispatched by me, at my expense,
to Banjul the nearest port to the Casamance region and supposedly scheduled to
arrive on the 8th September.
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| Images of The Gambia |
The
conditions in the central city area were absolutely atrocious. Most of Banjul
was severally flooded with more heavy rainfall due that day. Nonetheless, we
made our way to the dock to meet a shipping agent and friend of Alagi's, Osman and
eventual to Customs House.
By
now it had started to rain heavily, clearly making a bad situation worse.
Indeed it was fortunate that we were riding around in a 4 x 4 as we sat
comparatively high off the ground allowing us to negotiate the flooded streets
without too much of a problem, apart from the obvious bow wave following in our
wake.
Fortunately
Customs House is slightly elevated, as are the shops on either side of the
street, probably deliberate. We would have to, however, wade through eighteen
inches plus of water first to get across the road to the entrance.
After
a short meeting and discussion with the officials, it was ascertained that we
needed a 'Bill of Laden' to assist in the search for the items and decided to
re-convene the following day.
Alagi
kindly dropped us off at the local YMCA in Kanifeng where we were given two
spacious rooms, although that was the only redeeming feature. Our intention,
print off the Bill of Laden and meet up the following morning.
Heavy rainfall overnight!
It
continued to rain throughout the night. The following morning Alagi arrived as agreed
at 9.30 a.m. Deanne and I by then had determined that we had had enough of the
YMCA for all sorts of reasons and decided it was time to move on to alternate
lodgings.
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| It's raining again, oh no its rainy again |
Deanne opted for a more frugal
solution sharing with a mutual friend, Tamsir, in his small one-room house out
towards Manjal Kunda (not far from Serukunda). I, on the other hand, decided to
stay at a guesthouse in the Fajara area, close to the beach. At £10 per night,
not bad I thought!
Wasted morning in Banjul
All sorted we drove to Customs
House to be confronted by far worse conditions than the previous day.
Overnight rain had caused severe
flooding to most streets in and around central Banjul, with raw sewage seeping
up through the drains compounding the problem. Amazingly enough, business
continued unabated.
After several hours talking to
port officials we determined that we were no further ahead and abandoned the
search for another day.
It would later materialize that
the ship hadn't docked and wouldn't until the 23rd September.
Dengue Fever or is it Malaria?
Thursday Deanne started to feel
very ill; with a headache, fever, a feeling of tiredness and muscle pains,
similar to that of influenza. As far as we could ascertain the symptoms seemed
like those of Dengue Fever, not Malaria. Both are brought about in a similar
fashion by a bite from and infected mosquito, although the outcome is
potentially more severe with the latter, sometimes fatal. N.B. Falciparum Malaria can cause death if
diagnosed to late or left untreated.
Friday
day time and in particular the evening things took a turn for the worse. Deanne
had developed abdominal pains, diarrhea, coughing, vomiting, severe fluid loss,
fever and a very high temperature.
What is Malaria
and Dengue Fever?
Malaria is a
mosquito-borne infectious disease of humans and other animals caused by
eukaryotic protists of the genus Plasmodium. The disease results from the
multiplication of Plasmodium
parasites within red
blood cells, causing symptoms that typically include fever and headache, in severe
cases progressing to coma or death. It is
widespread in tropical and subtropical regions, including much of Sub-Saharan Africa, Asia, and the Americas.
There are five
species of Plasmodium Falciparum, the more
severe, Vivax, Ovale, Malariae and Knowlesi that causes
malaria in macaques as well.
There is no vaccines offering a
high level of protection currently available although there are a number of
preventatives for travellers to malaria-endemic countries (prophylaxis). Severe malaria is treated
with intravenous or intramuscular quinine or, since
the mid-2000s, the artemisinin derivative artesunate, which is superior to quinine.
There were
an estimated 225 million cases of malaria worldwide in 2009 and an estimated
655,000 people died, accounting for 2.23% of deaths worldwide.
Symptoms of
malaria include fever, shivering, arthralgia (joint
pain), vomiting, anemia (caused by hemolysis), jaundice, hemoglobinuria, retinal damage, and convulsions. The classic symptom of malaria
is cyclical occurrence of sudden coldness followed by rigor and then fever and sweating
lasting four to six hours.
Severe
malaria is almost exclusively caused by Plasmodium
falciparum, and usually arises 6–14 days after infection. Consequences
of severe malaria include coma and death
if untreated.
Dengue Fever is transmitted by several
species of mosquito within the genus Aedes. The virus has four different types;
infection with one type usually gives lifelong immunity to that type, but only
short-term immunity to the others. Subsequent infection with a different type
increases the risk of severe complications. As there is no vaccine prevention
is sought by reducing the habitat, the number of mosquitoes and limiting
exposure to bites.
The
characteristic symptoms of dengue are sudden-onset fever, headache (typically
located behind the eyes), muscle and joint pains, and a rash. The alternative
name for dengue, "break-bone fever", comes from the associated muscle
and joint pains. The course of infection is divided into three phases: febrile,
critical, and recovery.
Typically,
people infected with dengue virus are asymptomatic (80%) or only have mild
symptoms such as an uncomplicated fever. Others have more severe illness (5%),
and in a small proportion it is life threatening. The incubation period (time between exposure and onset of
symptoms) ranges from 3–14 days, but most often it is 4–7 days. Therefore,
travellers returning from endemic areas are unlikely to have dengue if fever or
other symptoms start more than 14 days after arriving home. Children often
experience symptoms similar to those of the common cold and gastro-enteritis
(vomiting and diarrhea), and generally have less severe symptoms than adults,
but are more susceptible to the severe complications.
Deanne has Malaria
Just
to put things into perspective Deanne's was staying in a room no larger than a
small double bedroom, no lounge, kitchen or bathroom with the shower and WC
housed away from the main building across a courtyard, with Tamsir, friend of
hers from the village of Ndongane, about 7 kilometers from Fajara and my guest
house.
The
following morning Deanne recounted events from the previous evening along with
her developing symptoms. It was clear that she had contracted Malaria.
We
needed to get her to a clinic and diagnose the strain so I made my way to her
with the intention of taking D to hospital.
She
had the good sense to start herself on an emergency three-tablet course of
anti-malaria tablets that she’d brought with her. It’s a strong course of Mefloquine or Lariam, supposed to reduce the effects
of the symptoms; one tablet taken at the same time each day over a three-day
period.
We
managed to get her in her very weakened state to a nearby Muslim clinic, with
the help of Tamsir's nephew. They confirmed our diagnosis, although once on
medication the only thing to do is rest and take lots of fluid on board.
History of the Gambia
The first
written account for the region came from records written by Arab traders dating
back to the 9th and 10th centuries AD.
In medieval
times the Trans-Saharan Trade dominated the area. With the reign of the Mali
Empire, most renowned for the Mandinka ruler Mansa Kankan Musa, bringing worldwide
recognition to the region due to its enormous wealth, scholarship, and
civility.
The Songhai Empire controlled the area subsequently up until the
16th century. As time went on the area began to suffer from
continuous Moroccan and Portuguese invasion and looting, until the Songhai Empire
finally collapsed with the conquerors Portugal claiming ownership.
In 1588, the
claimant to the Portuguese throne, Antonio, Prior of Crato, sold exclusive
trade rights to ‘The Gambia River’ to English merchants; this grant was
confirmed by letters patent from Queen Elizabeth I.
In 1618,
King James I granted a charter to an English
company for trade with The Gambia and the Gold Coast (now Ghana).
Between 1651
and 1661 part of Gambia became a colony of Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, purchased
by the Courlandish duke Jakub Kettler. At that time Courland, in modern-day Latvia, was a fiefdom of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.
The Courlanders settled on James Island, which they called St.
Andrews Island using it as a trade base from 1651 until the English captured it
in 1661.
During the Second World War, Gambian troops fought with the Allies in Burma and Banjul served as an air stop for the U.S. Army Air Corps and a port of call for
Allied naval convoys.
U.S.
President Franklin D. Roosevelt stopped overnight in Banjul en-route to and
from the Casablanca Conference in 1943, marking the
first visit to the African Continent by an American president while in office.
After the
Second World War, the pace of constitutional reform increased. Following
general elections in 1962, with full internal self-governance granted the
following year.
The Gambia
achieved Independence on February 18, 1965 as a
constitutional monarchy within the Commonwealth. Shortly thereafter, the
government held a referendum proposing that an elected president replace the Gambian monarch as head of state. The referendum failed to receive the two-thirds
majority required to amend the constitution, but the results won widespread
attention abroad as testimony to The Gambia's observance of secret balloting,
honest elections, civil rights and liberties.
On April 24,
1970, The Gambia became a republic within the Commonwealth, following a second
referendum, with Prime Minister Sir Dawda Kairaba Jawara, as head of state.
Until a
military coup in July 1994, President Jawara, who was re-elected five times,
led The Gambia. The relative stability of the Jawara era was shattered first by
a coup attempt in 1981, led by Kukoi Samba Sanyang who on two occasions had
unsuccessfully sought election to Parliament.
After a week
of violence, which left several hundred people dead Jawara, then in London when
the attack began, appealed to Senegal for help, who subsequently defeated
the rebel force. In the aftermath, Senegal and The Gambia signed the 1982 Treaty of Confederation. The Senegambia Confederation came into
existence; it aimed eventually to combine the armed forces of the two states
and to unify their economies and currencies. The Gambia withdrew from the
confederation in 1989.
In July
1994, Yahya A.J.J. Jammeh led a coup d'état that
deposed the Jawara government. Between 1994 and 1996, Jammeh ruled as head of the
Armed Forces Provisional Ruling Council
(AFPRC) and banned opposition and political activity. The AFPRC announced a
transition plan for a return to democratic civilian rule, establishing the
Provisional Independent Electoral Commission (PIEC) in 1996 to conduct national
elections. After a constitutional referendum (in August), presidential and parliamentary elections were held. Jammeh
was sworn into office as president on November 6, 1996. The following year, the
PIEC transformed into the Independent Electoral Commission (IEC) on April 17.
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| President Jammeh (left) |
Jammeh has
won both the 2001 and 2006 elections and more recently the 2011, by removing or discrediting the
opposition.
Redeeming features of The Gambia
At
this point I should say something redeeming about Gambia and in particular
Fajara. It’s a nice beach resort close to the capital city of Banjul with good
access to the adjoining resorts of Kololi and Kotu.
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| Images of The Gambia |
The
small guesthouse that I’m staying in, an English couple runs the ‘Sun Bird
Lodge’, June, mother to Alan, Alan and his bright lad Lewis, 9 years old, who
speaks fluent Mendinka. It's small and quaint in an English guesthouse sort of
way.
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| Images of The Gambia |
Clean
and reasonably priced, about fifty pounds for a week out of season, for two people
sharing. Well placed for local shops, banks (ATM - a real problem in Africa),
the beach, golf course and two very good restaurants, 'The Butchers Shop' and
'The Clay Oven'. A good Indian although a little pricey - Kat you will remember the Clay Oven from our last visit to Fajara. Kat
and I went out with a friend of Deanne's, Linda and a nice Swedish couple.
‘The Clay Oven’, Fajara
As I recollect we ended up in a
club somewhere else in Fajara smoking cinnamon and apple in one of those
'Hubble Bubble' Arab contraptions. I ended up getting high on the stuff!!
There
are loads of good restaurants and some interesting bars in and around Kololi,
about a 5 Dalasi per person trip in a shared straight-line taxi from Fajara.
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| Images of The Gambia |
Oddly enough Kat, the other day
I strolled past the very hotel that we stayed at 4 year's ago. You may
recollect the name, 'The Combo Beach Hotel', part of the Gambian Experience.
Gambian experience my foot,
anyway it's closed and boarded up along with most of the hotels, two night
clubs and most of the restaurants scattered along the Fajara beach front. I guess all to do with the
world recession.
Deanne recovers but loses her money!
By Monday Deanne felt well
enough to venture out, so we spent the day together in and around the Fajara
area sorting out various things initially at the guesthouse and then at one of
my favorite places, ‘Timbookto; a rarity in Africa a place that sells books.
Both the ‘Sun Bird Lodge’ and bookshop have free Internet service, so perfect
for sorting out E-mails, etc., with Deanne opting to return home by local bus
at around 7.00p.m.
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| Images of The Gambia |
At 7.40
p.m. I received a call from Tamsir to say that D had lost her phone,
driving license, copy of her passport, purse, money, key to the room and a pair
of flip-flops either on the bus or off the bus and could I go to the Kotu
junction to look for them just in case.
Happy to comply, however, clearly it was unlikely that I would find the
items in the dark. I rang her number several times, just in case, with no
response.
The
following day we, Deanne, Tamsir and I, travelled to Serukunda police station
to file a police report.
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| Images of The Gambia |
You know it's incredible, I
think I've been to Serukunda four or five times now and the high street,
possibly the busiest in the area, is always flooded with thick red slimy mud,
you have to gingerly pick your way through it. White or light trousers are
definitely out!
After
two hours and several 100 Dalasi in administrative costs later we were none the
wiser. It seemed unlikely that the police would do anything; the paperwork was
purely for any subsequent insurance claim. Tamsir went to work; Deanne and I
found a café and had lunch.
We
eventual made our way back to Fajara and 'Timbookto', play on words, with
Deanne eventually returning to home at 9.30 p.m.
Tamsir
called at some point to say that he had made contact with the guy that had
Deanne's things and could we meet him early tomorrow morning and make a trade
for the items. Anyway all's well that ends well we managed to get everything
back at a cost!
Deanne returning to the UK
On
another matter, D is returning
to the UK on the 24th September for medical reasons.
In retrospect Deanne has lost an extraordinary amount of weight and you have
to question whether it is symptomatic of a deeper medical problem. She is bitterly disappointed, especially as she has waited so long for me to
turn up before travelling together in earnest.
She intends returning to Casamance to
say farewell to her friends in the village and then
on to Guinea Bissau, a last chance to explore! There's a prevailing sense of pessimism, D's convinced that she won't be coming back.
Sitting here composing this
E-mail, it's now Thursday evening and it's raining, a familiar story, I guess Deanne and her friend Siaka will have reached Ziguinchor by now
perhaps beyond; I will phone her later to see.
The
realization that 'my friend' is returning home prematurely, dashing her dream of
travelling round the countries of West Africa, makes me sad. We haven't
always seen 'eye to eye' on everything and I hope that she will forgive me. I've enjoyed the experience and her company. She is generous of
heart, patient, considerate and compassionate.
She will return to
the village of Ndongane in the near future to continue where she left off of that I am sure.
My own plans pale into
in-significance in the circumstances, that's for another time.
