Mindanao, its all about the people - Journal no. 22
31st November to 24th December 2011
The Island of Mindanao
Mindanao is the Southern most point of the Philippine archipelago and it’s the world’s 19th-largest island with a population of about 13,000,000 people. It’s known for dazzling scenery, primitive hill tribes and almost a complete lack of tourists due to the political unrest and occasional fighting between the government and Muslim separatists, oh and the odd kidnap or two. The area, East of Dipolog, all the way from Cagayan de Oro to Suirago has some of the most beautiful coastline, the best sandy beaches in the Philippines, its Catholic and its safe.
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| View of Dipolog from the 5th floor of the Hotel |
Wherever you go at the moment, schools, churches, shopping malls, government buildings, towns, parks and most public buildings are all heavily involved in preparation for Christmas.
The Tukuran Technical College and Secondary School, in the Province of Lanao Del Sur, is a typical example. On a section of verge in front of the school, they’ve fashioned out of bamboo and wood, a 20’ mock-up of Noah’s Ark, the crib where Jesus was born, an elaborate bar and shop along with various other displays representing events within the bible.
I’ve had already had many Christmas invitations!
Arriving in the city of Dipolog
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| Lunch with local family and friends celebrating a Catholic Festival |
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| Friend Joy that I met in Cebu and I |
Driving 30km along the coast to the village of Manukan to celebrate St. Francis of Assisi festival with friends, family and strangers.
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| Irene the one standing is the hostess with her friends |
Joy’s sister and friends met her at the airport, which was fortunate as we shared a motorbike to the city centre. I met Joy, earlier on in Cebu and we got on, it was just co-incidental that we were travelling on the same plane. Dipolog, like most cities across the Philippines is pretty much a nondescript place by the sea.
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| A friend that I met on my travels - Joy |
After meeting, corresponding and then travelling on the same plane together, Joy invited me, along with her Aunt, cousins, Angela and George, to a private party the following day.
Christmas in the Philippines
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| Some of the Christmas decorations lining the sea road |
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| One of the many Christmas displays lining the Boulevard |
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| Themed displays are constructed by different communities in preparation for Christmas |
Dipolog is positioned along the North coast and to the West of the island, in a region known as Misamis Occidental. The beach of black lava sand is on one side with the mountains in the distance on the remaining three sides, the highest about 2,600m. The city is laid out pretty much in a grid system, a mixture of old, new and run down. There is a 2-mile long promenade with a 50m wide section of land. A path and wide road occupy half with the remainder left vacant for most of the year, presently filled with a variety of Christmas displays, temporary food stalls, restaurants, bars, etc.
Night out on the town
Wandering along the promenade one evening I bumped into a Philippine guy called Dick. It materialises that his wife works in the UK as a nurse in one of the London hospitals and has done so for about 10 years now. People are just so interested in you!
Diner with friends
Ivory and I met the previous evening whilst I was having a drink with
Dick. She wander passed our table many times, smiling suggestively every
time we made eye contact. Eventual she and her friends sat down a couple
of tables away from us, I strolled over and suggested that they should
join us, which they did. We all got on and after several more drinks
moved on to a club. I think we parted company around 1.30am, Dick taking
Ivory back to her house and myself to my hotel. We'd agreed to meet the
following evening.
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| Newly found friend Mary Woo |
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| Mary posing by the statue of Jesus |
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| Ivory and I posing against the backdrop of one of the Xmas displays |
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| Normalita, Ivory and Trisha - promenade food stall |
Ivory appeared with her sister, Normalita, and her mutual friend, a lady boy, Trisha in tow, which was fine. Trisha's very precise in her/his mannerisms, tall so no where to hide and very introvert, a bit of a contradiction really. We had a reasonable meal at one of the many sea-side food stalls and then moved on to a Karaoke bar.
A point of note Karaoke is a national pastime in the Philippines many are awful singers never vocalise your opinion as it will cause great offence. Both Ivory and Trisha are surprisingly good. Anyway a great and very interesting evening.
Not many tourists in Mindanao
A point of note Karaoke is a national pastime in the Philippines many are awful singers never vocalise your opinion as it will cause great offence. Both Ivory and Trisha are surprisingly good. Anyway a great and very interesting evening.
Not many tourists in Mindanao
Being very much in a minority here, I think I've seen about six tourists so far either from the UK or USA, so clearly we stick out like a saw thumb.
Everyone wants to be your friend in Dipolog. If you're receptive anyone will engage you in conversation out of interest or simple curiosity. Always polite, 'sir', or,'boss', seems to be the normal form of address. The people of Mindanao are very respectful to strangers or perhaps wary. Wandering along the streets you become very conscious that you're being watched. A child waves, a group of young girls giggle as you walk by, a guy greets you or a stranger sparks up a conversation with you about nothing really.
Sometimes its about the journey…….
Everyone wants to be your friend in Dipolog. If you're receptive anyone will engage you in conversation out of interest or simple curiosity. Always polite, 'sir', or,'boss', seems to be the normal form of address. The people of Mindanao are very respectful to strangers or perhaps wary. Wandering along the streets you become very conscious that you're being watched. A child waves, a group of young girls giggle as you walk by, a guy greets you or a stranger sparks up a conversation with you about nothing really.
Sometimes its about the journey…….
After spending several days in Dipolog, I decide to move south to Pagadian passing through the provinces of Zamboanga Del Norte and Lanao Del Sur. Even a simple thing like getting on a local bus and traveling across country seems to provoke some strange and curious looks. Driving through the countryside children at school, ladies washing clothes, men working in the fields simply pause for a moment, smile and then wave at you.
Across the island to Pagadian City
Across the island to Pagadian City
The 114km of countryside from north to south is stunning, hilly and mountainous. The uplands fringed with coconut and banana trees the lowlands rice, corn and maize. Clearly life is very simple. Modest, traditionally built houses with farming the main source of income. The route into and out of the interior is fine, the 60km across the central area, however, is across rough track. Slow, bumpy and at times precarious as we negotiate the ridge road, often with a sheer drop either side.
Pagadian is hilly town sloping steeply down to the sea, in fact the tricycles are cantilevered in such a way as to deal with the steep incline. Its a non discript town just like Dipolog.
Pagadian is hilly town sloping steeply down to the sea, in fact the tricycles are cantilevered in such a way as to deal with the steep incline. Its a non discript town just like Dipolog.
Pagadian the Provincial capital city
A few words about Pagadian, it’s the capital of the Lanao Del Sur province, set on the side of a steep hill sloping down to the waters edge and port. The buildings are a mixture of old, new, derelict, run down and those under construction. There’s nothing that marks the city out over and above any other in the Philippines. Tourists are a rarity here, governed by the lack of spoken English, uncertainty as to how to act, constant concern expressed about one’s safety and just a lack of visible strangers in town. Nil!!!!
Local bus to nearby town of Tukuran
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| Tukuran beach |
I decide to have a look along the coast to a town by the sea known as Tukuran. I had no idea what I would find there, as there is so little information available as a tourist, I guess with so few visitors.
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| Local fishing boat on the dark sand beach at Tukuran |
Beer and coke with locals in the town of Tukuran
The local bus from Pagadian dropped me off pretty much in front of the Tukuran Technical College and Secondary High School. They're busy constructing various Christmas displays at the moment. After exchanging pleasantries with the children and teachers I promised that I would return once I explored the town.
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| Friendly greeting from the locals - stall owner on the beach |
Wandering along the beach, I engaged in friendly banter with two local stall owners. I bought beer and coke cola for the adults and a throng of children that had joined us and we just sat and chatted for a while. They, I guess, out of curiosity and myself out of the warm reception that I received and felt. It was good to be amidst such lovely human beings.
There was some concern expressed by many about travelling around the region of Lanao Del Sur on my own though, citing a recent kidnapping of a Korean tourist by extremists!!
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| Local children posing for the camera |
After wandering round what is a very small town, clearly aware of the interest created, you realise what a privilege it is to commune with such lovely, well mannered, friendly people.
Arriving in Tukuran reminded me of how it was returning to the village of Ndongane, Casamance some years earlier, where you were very much in the minority, of one! Literarily, everyone was either staring at you, smiling, welcoming you to their town, engaging in conversation or following at a discreet distance.
Christmas preparations
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| Local children, pleased to see a rare stranger in their midst |
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| Such lovely, friendly, happy local children in Tukuran |
The Head Teacher formally invited me to the opening of the school Christmas celebrations at the ‘Tukuran Technical College & Secondary High School’. They’ve built a mock-up of the manger, bar, 20’ Noah’s Ark along with other stands depicting exerts from the bible.
Lunchtime for the teachers
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| Headmistress, green top, and teachers stopping for lunch break |
Another spontaneous display of hospitality commonplace on the island, interestingly enough tinged with a word of warning about travelling round the area on my own. Luz, headmistress, at the same time formally invited me to the opening of the Christmas display on the 16th December, a time or celebration and partying I suspect. It would have been fun but I had to decline.
Journey back to Dipolog
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| Heading back to Dipolog |
After a fantastic time in Tukuran I took a local bus back to Pagadian and a ‘Rural Transport’ bus to Dipolog the following morning. There wasn’t really any reason to stay longer apart from visiting some waterfalls some distance from the main city. Interestingly there is a small minority of Muslims present here most seem to have their own Mosque within a high walled compound.
Visiting Santa Isabella, a Dipolog suburb
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| Ivory's family gathered in her Aunt's house, one of the more substantial properties |
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| Aunt and grandchildren in San Isabella |
I arrived back in Dipolog later than I expected although not a problem, it’s a simple process of a short walk to the Sea View Hotel. I’d intended meeting Ivory Woo to spend some time with her and her family to appreciate Filipino life. We had diner a couple of times previous once with her sister Normalita and her lady boy friend Trisha.
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| Ivory Woo |
The second time was with her sister, cousins and neighbours and they were keen to see me again. Ivory lives in what can only be described as a shack in the Dipolog suburb of Santa Isabella. Comprising a compacted earthen floor, wooden walls and a leaky corrugated roof, about 20’ x 15’. Ivory’s mothers shack (a reformed alcoholic) sleeps five, her sister’s house is next door with the Aunts house sleeping eight opposite.
Coke-cola and Chinese kite flying
Ivory, Normalita and I were wandering around the city centre one morning to try and find an English to Tagalog (local dialect) dictionary, so at least I could make an attempt at speaking the language. We bumped into seven girls, Ivory's nieces and neighbours, and wander round the town together, sharing a few bottles of Coke-Cola along the way. I ended up purchasing a Chinese kite (paper balloon with a candle burner) which that they let off. Great fun!
Humbling experience!
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| Cousins, friends & neighbours in San Isabella |
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| Good friends living in San Isabella |
Wandering into ‘real peoples homes’ (that sounds awfully condescending its not intended to be) can be such an awesome experience. Despite the difficult conditions, often squalid in our opinion, there’s such a sense of genuine hospitality, a pleasant greeting with a cheery smile. You’re proffered a seat and then it feels as if you ‘holding an audience’ as the question and answer session begins with all in the room.
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| Ivory with some of nephews & cousins |
This is what I like most about travel a chance to relate and understand. Ivory’s in-firmed aunt, at 62 looks like an 85yr old, lives in a cupboard, there’s a kitchen and an outside seating area. She still manages a heart felt smile though!!
Moving on to Dapitan city by the sea
The seaside city of Dapitan is about an hour east of Dipolog. The black lava sand palm fringed beach is set against a mountainous backdrop.
Dapitan beach side monument
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| Monument remembering Dr Jose Rizal's exile on Mindanao |
There are some really good restaurants a short stroll along the beach and reasonably priced, which would suggest that this isn’t a place frequented by tourists. On a general note the weather has been fine about 30 degrees with an occasional shower. We’re edging close to the hurricane season, which begins in earnest around mid-December.
Strolling along the beach with Ivory
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| Ivory on Dapitan promenade |
Ivory has become a friend over the last few days and it made travelling around so much more enjoyable. You see more, understand and relate in a different way, it’s been fun.
Dapitan City Resort Hotel
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| Dapitan Beach side Resort |
Situated along the black lava sand beach, about a 1½ kilometres from Dapitan city centre, surrounded on three sides by hills and mountains. There’s a pool, which is just as well the beach is dirty, as well as a restaurant and bar. The rooms are spacious if not a little dated, and we have a poolside view. There are a number of good bars, restaurants, Holiday Park and fair close by. It’s actually a very relaxing place to while away a few days.
Day out with friends
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| In the pool (left to right) Marsha, Ivory & Normalita |
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| Poolside at the Dapitan Resort Hotel |
As I’d visited the Woo’s family home it seemed only right and proper that they spend some time with me at my hotel. We had a great day out, breakfast by the pool; a swim followed by a fabulous lunch at the Erlinda Food House restaurant.
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| Lunch along Dapitan Beach |
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| Lunch at the beach side Erlinda's restaurant in Dapitan |
Lolita, Ivory's mother, is difficult to talk to, lacking an understanding of the English language; she’s introvert and a recovering alcoholic to boot, a reaction to the death of her husband some 2 years ago.
Dapitan palm fringed beach
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| Lava sand Dapitan beach |
Seven kilometre wide sheltered cove with black lava sandy beach, a few hotels and some bars. The City of Dapitan has a population of 68,178 people in 13,560 households. It is historically significant as being the place where the national hero, Jose Rizal was exiled by the Spaniards and is known as the "Shrine City in the Philippines."
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| Potentially a superb beach, its just all of the rubbish that's accumulated |
The city also boasts Gloria’s Fantasyland the first amusement park in the Visayas-Mindanao region. Geographically, it comprises a 7-kilometre wide cove and a 3½-kilometre long beach. Mountains and hills range either side of the cove and to the rear, presumably sheltering the bay from high winds. The beach is unfortunately littered with flotsam and debris, which is a shame.
Heritage house and tourist office
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| One of the many colonial buildings in Dapitan |
A traditional colonial looking building currently used as the tourist office.
St. James church, Dapitan
Dapitan is considered a 4th class city, whatever that means, located in the province of Zamboanga Del Norte. There are many historical buildings as you wander the city situated at the far end of the bay, for example, St. James church below and Dr. Jose Rizal Park.
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| St James church, Dapitan |
Many of the municipal buildings are colonial in appearance and fashioned out of wood. The town hall French with its colonnade and balconied frontage, the County Courthouse typically British in its appearance with the remaining buildings of note strongly influenced by the Spanish rulers, at the time.
Park and city centre, Dapitan
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| Central Quezon Park - Dapitan |
The hub of the city is the central market area and, surprisingly, the bus station, for once housed where it should be. I like Dapitan, it’s a relaxed place, the people are friendly, it’s quiet, there’s just enough to do here to make it interesting, the people seem reasonably well off and the setting is just about perfect. With a little refinement, for example, clearing the beach of the thousands of coconut husks, bamboo, flotsam and all the other crap it could be excellent. Just across the bay, at a discreet distance, is the ferry terminal, a modest affair, serving Cebu and Negros.
Village of Purok Malipayon Talisay
Wandering along the beach to the Dr. Jose Rizal Park I stumbled on the village of Purok Malipayon Talisay.
New friends along the way
Today, the 14th December, I walked through the city of Dapitan and across the wide causeway bridge toward the white sandy beach of Dhaka, passing through one of the many pretty villages surrounded by steep green veiled hills on the way. As it happened, I didn’t get quite as far as I had intended, taking a detour to the Jose Rizal memorial Park (100 pesos for me 10 pesos for locals) and ultimately a fishing village.
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| Local fisherman pulling in the catch of the day |
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| Four local fisherman |
Standing on the promenade taking a picture of the vista below and in particular four people pulling in fishing net someone shouted, ‘hello’ or perhaps it was a greeting in the local Tagalog dialect, I’m not sure. A few minutes later and I’m helping.
Lady fisher women, only 23yrs!
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| Local fisher lady |
At the time the young lady opposite, one of the four indistinguishable from the rest bent over and veiled from the sun, piped up indicating that she was a lady and only 23yrs old, as if to say, ‘I’m available’. I helped for about a ½ hour. It takes over 4-hours, apparently, to pull the net fully in, stretching a hundred meters out into the bay.
The sprats like fish are then taken to nearby Dapitan market to sell. Tough living yes, beautiful setting absolutely, on balance not a bad life just not particularly productive. The surrounding village would suggest that the residents are clearly poor, however, I’ve seen worse.
Beer and coconut wine
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| Some of the local guys that I sat with for an hour or so |
Leaving the cheery fisherman and the single women to their own devices, I headed back up the beach to the village to meet some of the guys that had been barracking us from the shore. Often the best way to get to know people and become one of the group, buy a few beers and some coconut wine…. or to be precise 3 litres of strong beer and two gallons of wine!!!
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| Japaw (blue shirt) and Edwin (no top) to of the local villagers |
Anyway we had a good chat about this and that, put the world to rights and then Edwin’s cousin saw me home.
11-hour local bus ride to Cagayan De Oro
After spending six interesting days at the Dapitan Hotel its time to move on, initially by Tricycle to the crossroads and then a ‘Rural Transport’ AC bus to Cagayan.
I say interesting, there were a group of girls attending a 20th birthday pool party the last night and as is often the case they were keen to know all about me. Just like the villagers earlier on in the day, or the children and teachers in Tukuran or Ivory’s work colleagues when we stopped at her workplace. Invariable it takes the form of a question and answer session, with several people seeking a response at the same, always extraordinarily polite, with such enthusiasm and in good humour.
The bus journey from Dipolog follows a route across the peninsular to Ozamis, through undulating hilly greenery. There’s a lot of flooding here at the moment due to torrential rain and a hurricane blowing across the region.
At Ozamis, it’s off the bus and on to a roll-on roll-off ferry to Mukas, unfortunate pronunciation. The remaining trip, mainly in the dark and pouring rain, was fairly ordinary in so far as terrain, following the coast road passing through the industrial city of Iligan and eventually to Cagayan De Oro, arriving at about 7.30pm.
After about 4 abortive attempts to find a hotel, soaked to the skin, I final settled on the Metro Hotel for the night, gale force winds howling outside. The following day, news reported the devastation caused by the hurricane; floodwaters ripped through the city of Iligan not long after our bus passed through the city.
Diving off the Ferry!!
Whilst waiting to board the ferry to Mukas, children dive off the deck for money!!
With the incredible security measures in place, a fenced enclosure surrounding the ferry terminal you have to ask how 8 or so children, all boys aged from 7 to 14yrs, manage to find their way into the docking area. They swim from ship to ship, clamber up the sides and then dive from the top deck, a 30’ drop, into the murky sea below collecting money thrown in. When one of the ‘Roll on roll off’ ferries moved, concealed beneath the jetty were more boys hanging onto a makeshift raft, constructed from plastic water containers. How many drown I’ve no idea!
Flash flood kills a 1,000!!
Christmas is almost upon us, a time of joy, happiness, peace and families coming together in celebration. The 17th December torrents of water ripped through the heart of two cities Iligan and Cagayan De Oro, on the island of Mindanao, Southern Philippines, killing hundreds whilst they slept. Flash floods and landslides sent mud and logs crashing down on residents early Saturday morning killing 957 with 49 still reported missing.
Typhoon Washi affected 338,000 people across 13 provinces displacing 43,000 now living in schools, churches and gymnasiums. It is estimated that 10,000 homes have been destroyed or damaged by the effects of the typhoon and floods, with schools, roads and bridges also badly damaged.
Staying in Cagayan, the evening of the 17th, I was aware of heavy rainfall and gale force winds blowing outside, however, after a long bus journey I fell into a deep sleep oblivious of events unfolding. In the morning, making my way to the East bus terminal, there was some flooding apparent but little indication of the scale of events.
It wasn't until the 20th that I realised just how bad things were crossing the principle river that dissects the city by taxi, the driver coincidentally directly affected, that you begin to comprehend what had happened.
As always seems the case, the poorer communities build their homes often in the most vulnerable of places. The Cagayan De Oro River, possible wider than the Thames, comprises three levels. The river, a wide area of low lying land densely populated and then steep banks about 10 to 20 meters high either side. Looking at the silt deposits on top of the houses, still standing the river must have risen by at least 10 to 15 meters sweeping almost everything before it.
Devastation!!
Hurricane Washi hits the northern coast of Mindanao, as floodwaters rip through the region!!
Events are beginning to unfold across the region as to the effects of the recent hurricane that hit the island of Mindanao. The city of Dipolog was already suffering due to heavy rainfall it felt the effects of the storm on the evening of the 17th Dec., literally 12 hours after I left. Many hundreds were killed in the coastal cities of Iligan and Cagayan De Oro washed away by a torrent of water surging down the mountainside - 8 hours after our bus passed through Iligan. Arriving in Cagayan in ‘monsoon’ rain you were aware that something was occurring.
To Gingoog City
One night in Cagayan seemed long enough in the circumstances floodwater would hamper touring the city in any event.
It was the right decision drinking water had been contaminated, electric supplies affected and the gruesome process of extracting bodies from the wreckage along with a citywide cleanup was in hand.
The local bus to Gingoog City pretty much hugged the beautiful undulating coastline road, offering glimpses of the sea every now and then through a palm fringed cliff top or beachfront. What little you could see, the beaches would appear narrow and of dark lava sand. The villages were traditional on the whole and simple in their presentation with the cities or towns largely indistinct.
The main road leading into Gingoog is unusually wide, lined with all sorts of shops, banks and the like. It’s then a right-turn to the large bus station just across the road from the only hotel in town, fortunately with an available room. It’s set by the sea but its not a seaside town, there’s a new supermarket being built the first, a small promenade and jetty more for affect than for use and one really good Western style restaurant.
I liked Gingoog from the start. Its relaxed, peaceful and the people friendly. I’d met Mary earlier and we agreed to have diner together later.
Wild time in Gingoog!
Mary, Kristine, Agnes and I toured the sites of Gingoog City including the Christmas decorations.
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| Diner for 4 at funky restaurant |
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| Promenade Gingoog City |
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| Mary and I getting on so well |
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| Mary and I on the sea-side promenade |
Mary and I met at the bus station, we talked, liked each other, arranged to meet later that evening along with two of her friends, much to their surprise, at a fabulous, inexpensive restaurant. Funky, eclectic, with a superb ambience and excellent food, one collects the assortment of meat or fish (huge choice) on a plate, you’re allocated a number, go to the desk, order whatever else, like drinks and pay, the food is bought to your table cooked.
Kristine’s marrying an American on the 14th June, and I’ve already been invited, Agnes is married to a German guy.
Meeting Mary’s family & a day at Duka beach
After a great meal Kristine, Agnes, Mary and I toured the sites of the City. The promenade, a hive of activity at night with the many brightly lit food stalls with people wandering aimlessly and central park adorned with huge Christmas displays and illuminations.
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It appears communities across the country, big and small, around the Philippines, design, create and build their own themed Christmas display all in the spirit of competition. There’s also a display of over sized fruit just by the council building, although I’m not sure the relevance, perhaps they represent locally grown produce.
At 8.00pm I saw Mary home providing me a chance to meet with her family, a bit of a surprise for them.
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| Mary & her cousin Darelle, Duka beach |
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| Camiguin Island from Duka beach |
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| Mary on Duka beach promenade |
Mary and I decided it would be a good idea the following day to head 20km down the coast to the beach, weather permitting, and suggested the family should join us.
Mary, four others and I took a local Jeepnie to one of the few beaches along this section of coastline.
Dhaka Beach Resort comprises a narrow sandy beach, with elevated, spacious rooms in two floor blocks, well appointed and in a quiet secluded location overlooking the sea. In walled, wooded and guarded grounds the rooms are about 2,500 to 4,000 Pesos a night. There’s a pleasant restaurant, some bars, stalls serving food and a dive shop, so all fairly self-contained. We had a great day of sunshine, good food and with great company.
Visiting a local family
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| Mary's family - father Dodong standing |
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| The rest of Mary's family - mother Senn sitting |
Mary De Erio’s family live on the outskirts of the city, in two brick houses in reasonable grounds.
Her mother is a councillor; I think they have five children, all educated and working, brought up with a strong belief in tradition and the Catholic teachings. They’re a nice family if not a little to serious at times.
Paradise island of Camiguin, “born of fire”
Monday, 19th December, Mary and I decided to take a day trip to the active volcanic island of Camiguin. It’s a 1-hour bus journey along the coast to the town of Balingoan and the ferry terminal.
The crossing to the island takes about 1½-hour landing at the town of Guinsiliban. Although it barely qualifies, comprising a huddle of houses, a few local shops and a new ferry terminal nearing completion.
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| Waiting to board the ferry at Balingoan |
The name Camiguin is derived from the native word “Kamagong”, a tree of the Ebony family that thrives near lake Mainit in the Province of Suirago del Norte. The original inhabitants were “Manobo’s” who migrated from Suirago. The old native language is called “Kinamiguin”, similar to the dialect spoken in Suirago.
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| This old rust bucket is our ride to the distance island |
Situated off the north coast of Mindanao, East of Cagayan, bound by the Bohol Sea as well as the bays of Macajalar, Gingoog and Butuan. There are 7 volcanoes on an island with an approximate circumference of 64km with the most well known Mt. Hibok-Hibok still active.
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| Mary on the brow of the boat Camuguin Island in the distance |
Camiguin Island’s name “born of fire” is well deserved. On May 1, 1871, Mt. Vulcan erupted and destroyed Catarman with a portion of the town sinking beneath the sea. Later the settlement moved to were the town centre is presently located. All that remains are the ruins of the ancient Spanish church, convent and bell tower.
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| The Spanish church of Catarman destroyed in an earthquake |
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| One of the remaining church buttresses still standing after the volcanic eruption |
Out of interest, the people are called "Camiguingnon". The main occupation is fishing and farming, with copra providing the greatest income. Other crops grown are abaca, rice, mangoes and lanzones although tourism has become an important source of income more recently.
Three on a motorbike
Mary, the driver and I tour the island on the back of a motorbike, on a perfect sunshine day.
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| Quiet and comparatively traffic free roads on the island |
Getting off the ferry, as is often the case, you’re confronted with a choice of options, hop on a ‘town-to-town’ Jeepnie, invariable cheaper but indirect, hirer a small tour van which is much to expensive or, as in our case, hop on the back of a motorbike and let the driver act as our guide. It proved the perfect choice on a beautiful hot sunny day wind in your hair.
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| Me on the back of the motor-bike |
In fairness we managed to pack into the day most of what we wanted to see and arrived back at the ferry terminal just in time.
Trip round the island
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| The beautiful island of Camiguin |
It’s a stunning place where mountains and volcanoes dominate the centre veiled in greenery. Tall elegant palm and coconut trees sway gentle in the breeze. There are a few exquisite white sandy beaches that slope gentle down to the turquoise, crystal clear sea. The villages and towns seem serene, people laughing and waving as you pass by. There is a single road that circles the island with little if any traffic.
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| "The Sunken Cemetery" - the cross was erected in 1982 |
During the last main eruption on December 4, 1951 Mt. Hibok-Hibok claimed the lives of 1000 people at the same time the islands cemetery sank beneath the sea during an earthquake. Creating todays popular and historical site “The Sunken Cemetery”, where in 1982 a huge cross was erected as a memorial.
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| Mary and I posing with the cross in the background |
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| Black lava sand beach, clearly a volcanic island |
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| Ardent Springs heated by the volcano |
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| Mary posing by the hot springs fed from the volcano |
We stopped off at Ardent Springs both for lunch and a bathe; the water permeating through the rock is heated to 40 degrees by the volcanic activity of Mt. Hibok-Hibok. There are several recreational pools, a central garden area and a restaurant.
One of other many scheduled stops was at the Bura Soda Pool. Water from volcanic springs fills two large, clear, fresh water soda pools all set in attractive parkland, a perfect end to the day.
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| Bura Soda Pool - like swimming in champagne |
Katibawasan falls
Because of the topography there are many waterfalls on the island of Camiguin a product of volcanic action shaping the terrain.
Katibawasan Falls is one of the treasured gifts nature has bestowed on the island, one of many that the island of Camiguin has to offer. It is located 5 kilometres southeast of Mambajao at the foot of Mt. Timpoon and about 30 minutes from the ferry terminal.
About 250 feet or 70 meters the waters cascades into a rock pool below surrounded by huge trees with dropping vines and giant ferns decorating the surrounding landscape. It’s an idyllic setting located away from the main road.
All that remained was to complete the circumference of the island and heading back to the ferry terminal and home.
Cagayan to Mactan, Cebu and then to Palawan
Well Christmas is almost upon us and its been foremost on my mind, for some time now, where to spend it!
I guess the prospect of being away from friends and family, Kat and Craig in particular, a multitude of choices and a certain lack of imagination has been a delaying factor. The strange thing is that there have been many offers extended to me along the way, I’ve resisted primarily because it necessitated lingering in one place or an area for a longer than I would have liked.
You know it’s almost 9 months, or it will be as of the 25th December, since I left the UK shores and all in all it’s been an absolute blast. I can’t believe that I’ve left travelling to such far-flung places and for an extended period of time so late in life. Someone once said to me though, ‘when it feels right then it is right’, and I would have to agree, the timing or rather the time of your life that you embark on ‘the journey’ doesn’t matter.
For me it all seems so simple, but as you travel and meet people on the way, its interesting the effect that you have on them and they on you, its quite humbling, often causing an individual or individuals to modify their view in some small way, mine included. They or I buy into the passion, sense of adventure, enthusiasm for the experience and for living life, the pleasure that you bring to other people whilst you travel, the acquaintances and friends that you make along the way, and they’re so many, so very, very many.
Debbie and Graham are a particular inspiration for me, a UK couple that I met on the Perhentian Island, to the north of Peninsular Malaysia. We were only together for a few days, however, they had such an impact on myself and another friend of ours Birgit. They have a well-balanced view on life, there uncomplicated, nice people, engaging, fun to be with, knowledgeable, passionate about travel and adventure, prepared to break the mould or in other words do their own thing and their just so good together. A more-well balanced couple you couldn’t wish to meet.
Well, clearly sitting in the four star hotel, a Christmas present to myself, in Puerto Princesa, Palawan, I’m feeling in a reflective mood, which I guess is understandable in the circumstances. Nine months on the road has been an awesome, incredible, a fantastic experience! I’ve achieved a lot of what I set out to do and failed in other areas, none of us are perfect though.
The countries that I’ve travelled to, the many thousands of miles that I’ve flown, walked, ridden over by every conceivable form of transport or sailed across, the sights that I’ve seen and the experiences that I have had. Most of all its about the people, sometimes frustrating, occasionally irritating, rarely aggressive or threatening, more often engaging, curious, funny, pleasant, friendly, hospitable and always with a smile for a stranger in town.
It’s been a privilege to commune with people from around the world, hopeful I’ve learnt something along the way I guess only time will tell. The further you move away from the effect that tourists have on locals, generally the better, more receptive they are. The island of Mindanao is a great example where it really has been all about the islanders, long may it continue.
Back to the 4 star Fleuris Hotel in Palawan, I’d always intended visiting the island, home of the seventh wonder of the world the longest underground river, and it is Christmas, so why not.
It all began on the 20th I caught the ‘Yellow’ AC bus to the East Bus Terminal in Cagayan De Oro, only after saying a fond farewell to Mary, her friends and family. It was then simply a taxi ride 20kms to the outskirts of the city and the hill top airport.
The plane was delayed, as is the case at the moment, the after effects of the Hurricane Washi across the region, eventually arriving late afternoon at Mactan, Cebu. Fortunately, or perhaps I should say unfortunately, I’d booked accommodation for 3 nights at a place called ‘Cleverlearn Residences’. Spacious, modern rooms the downside it’s a language school pretending to be a hotel. Pupils mess around until early morning, they’re mainly Chinese with an arrogant disregard for anyone else, it’s isolated, no meals served after 7 o’clock, there’s no alcohol allowed and the only place where you can connect to Wi-Fi is by the pool table.
Time to move on again, this time to Palawan.
Merry Christmas
To family & friends wishing you a very Happy Christmas with health, wealth & happiness in the coming New Year!
It’s very strange being so far from home from the ones you love, virtually alone with only friends or casual acquaintances as companions. I’d always promised myself a Christmas in the sun so here I am, no complaints.
The Philippines is an interesting place to be right now, its not so far removed from things back in the UK. Filipino’s are as wrapped up in the trappings of what we now accept as a typical Christian based Christmas across the world, very commercial.
I like to thank you for taking an interest in my journal and I hope you’ve enjoyed reading it as much as I’ve liked writing it. See you in 2012 for more adventures!!
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