Puerto Princesa for Christmas - Journal no.23
24th December 2011 to the 31st January 2012
The Island of Palawan, Philippines
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| Sabang Beach - Northwest Palawan |
An archipelago of 1,780 islands,
Palawan is considered to be the “Last Frontier” of the Philippines. It’s a
natural sanctuary; embraced by rain forest's, lush marine life, majestic
mountains, primeval caves, hill tribes, pristine beaches, along with exotic
flora and fauna.
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| San Raphael Beach - Northeast Palawan |
The roads are poor and there’s limited transport
to tour the island, apart from the organized tour buses, or some of the most
overcrowded Jeepnie’s I have yet seen anywhere in the Philippines. Several of
the vehicles, peculiar to the Philippines, were being loaded at the San Jose
bus terminal north of Puerto Princesa. Every seat filled to capacity, the top
loaded from front to back with every conceivable type of cargo to a depth of
6’. Perched on top a further 12 to 20 people, probably for the two or so hours
it would take to reach the cities of Sabang or Roxas.
El
Nido – A marine protected
area to the north of the island boasts a diverse ecosystem with over 100 endemic
bird species, 800 fish species, manta ray and the sea cow or “dugong” the
world’s rarest marine mammal along with towering limestone cliffs.
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| Underground River at the UNESCO site in Sabang |
Underground
River – Close to the city
of Sabang is one of the Seven Wonders of the Natural World, 8.2 kilometers of
navigable Underground River a natural phenomenon hewn from the limestone rock.
Christmas on Palawan Island, Philippines
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| Sitting by the pool at the Hotel Fleuris |
The
Hotel Fleuris Palawan, central Puerto Princesa - Was a reasonable choice a cavernous sized room or I
should suite, reasonable Internet connection the primary reason for staying
there and close to shops and restaurants as well.
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| Central Square - Puerto Princesa |
Christmas itself was a somewhat subdue
affair for all in the hotel, or so it seemed. Many of the shops, bars and
restaurants closed early Christmas Eve; torrential rainfall certainly aided the
decision-making process, and there wasn’t much organized at the hotel itself.
After three days and with little to see
I decided to move to the outskirts of the city in the hope that it might be
easier to get out and look round.
Moving to the suburb of San Manuel
Villa
Manuel - It’s the 26th
December and its time to move on to the only real choice available, the Manuel Villa
Resort in the aptly named suburb of San Manuel, lack of information and availability
due to a late booking on my part.
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| Pool at the Villa Manuel Resort |
Comprising eight one-bedroom villas
with an outdoor pool, daytime restaurant, bar (not open at the moment) and not
much else. The shops and good restaurants are about 700 meters with San Jose
bus terminal about 1½ kilometers away.
In fairness it was a good option the staff where extremely helpful, the rooms were well set up and of a good size and the facilities good to.
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| Four of the eight villas at Villa Manuel |
San Jose Bus Terminal - A fairly basic set up with tricycles, small
vans, a limited number of larger buses and Jeepnie’s. It’s very difficult to
find out what there is to see here and then how to get there. Mainly a desire to promote their own service
in preference to being helpful, a language problem and Philippines having a
limited understanding of their own surroundings, something I’ve encountered
across the country.
Most of the transport is short haul; it’ll take you to the
next city suburb or local village but not much further. The Jeepnie’s will take
you to Sabang, northwest, about 76km and Roxas, northeast, 80km; however, the
last bus back is invariable around 3.30pm.
It takes all of 2/3 hours to get
there so it doesn’t leave much time to look round once there and that assumes
that you can find a place on the returning bus!
Exploring the area on foot
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| Microtel along San Manuel beach |
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| Beach photo taken from the Microtel - San Manuel |
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| Honda Bay - taken from the village of Batis |
Out of frustration one day, I walked 5
kilometers through mangrove to what was a coral beach and another 8 kilometers
to the Microtel perched on the sandy sea front, although when the tides in
there’s no beach. The same day I took a tricycle 14 kilometers down the coast
to Honda Bay expecting to find somewhere to swim only to be dropped off at a
small ferry terminal at Batis. The beaches are found across the bay on the
islands and it was heaving with Chinese and Korean tourists that day and they
can be incredibly hard work at times. I
then walked another 5 kilometers to the Hot Springs and Vietnamese village only
to be disappointed, although I enjoyed an excellent lunch at Kim’s restaurant
and Hot Springs.
Tours round the Island
Trip
with Bawkan tours to Ugong and Sabang - 29th December five Filipinos, all from the
same family, and I’d organized a trip to the Underground River, a UNESCO world
heritage site, a Philippine National Park and now listed as the 7th
Natural Wonder of the World. We were
scheduled to tour the main event at 2.30pm and were far to early. We opted,
therefore, to take a short detour, our guides Raimondi’s suggestion, to Ugong
Rock Adventures.
Ugong Adventure Park
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| Paradise, Sabang beach - Island of Palawan, Philippines |
It’s not that much further to Sabang
Beach. Probably the best beach that I’ve come across in the Philippines so far,
evoking feelings of how one would expect a Pacific Island beach to look like,
although its actually in the South China Sea. Comprising a wide arcing bay, with
long white sandy palm fringed beach sloping gentle down to the azure sea with
emerald topped mountains as a back drop.
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| Posing with a Filipino family from Quezon, Manila |
The town of Sabang is small, simple and
perfect. There are many local shops, a
small harbor, beachfront restaurants, food stalls and a few hotels, of note the
Sheridan, all nestling amidst the trees. A single road links the town with the
nearby villages and Puerto Princesa. Electric is diesel generated, as there is
no National Grid system here. Its quiet, beautiful, almost jaw droppingly so,
and remote, just 20kms into the interior and you’re in densely forested land
occupied by ancient hill-tribes, some running around in a near naked state,
that rely on hunting for subsistence.
Subterranean River National Park - Facts
Its
considered as one of the most important protected areas in the Philippines,
located in the Midwest coast of Palawan, 76km North West of the principle city
of Puerto Princesa, It covers an area of approximately 22,202 hectares.
The
National Park is formed from limestone or karst mountain landscape with an
underground river 8.2km in length flowing directly into the sea. The lower half
is brackish and subject to the oceans tidal influence making this a unique
natural phenomenon. The recent discovery of a 20 million old Serenia fossil,
crystal and egg shaped rock formations has further added to the scientific
value of the cave.
The
protected ecosystem represents 8 of the 13 forest formations found in the
region, with more than 800 identified specie of fauna, including 290 types of
tree, in particular the Dipterocarp. There are 165-recorded specie of bird, 30
mammal, 19 reptiles and 10 species of amphibian.
The
park encompasses mangroves, sea grass beds and coral formations as well.
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| All kitted out ready to board the canoe |
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| Mouth of the cave with the sheer limestone cliffs beyond |
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| Entrance to the Underground River cave |
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| On the way into to the mouth of the cave - paddle power |
There’s a lot of paperwork to deal with
when visiting the river and fortunately our guide dealt with that side of
things. It involves the issuing of a permit, proof of identity of those
visiting the site, allotting a specific boat to take you there, allocation of a
number or place in line to board the 8/10 seat canoe. All seemingly in vain,
however, as there’s a lack of co-ordination between tour operators, i.e.
expected numbers, etc., and the people on site, so the time slot allocated is
meaningless, we’re on Philippine time now!!
The main entrance comprises a registration
area with covered seating set in dense protected forest. A raise wooden walkway
preserving the forest floor meanders the ½ kilometer to the dock, river and cave
entrance.
You’re confronted by a body of water turquoise
in colour gently flowing through a gap, barely distinguishable, in the sheer
side of a limestone cliff. Dense forest surrounds the area on all sides
restricting visibility, aided by the many people waiting to board.
It must’ve been about 4.30pm, 2-hours
later than expected, that we took our turn. Once in the canoe, you can make out
the entrance in front and the outlet behind to the sea more clearly.
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| Rock formations inside the cave itself |
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| One of the many boats navigating the underground river |
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| Smooth sided walls suggest that the water was much higher |
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| Rock formations inside the cave |
We would make our way 1.5 kilometers
in, the permitted distance on this tour, about 45 minutes all told to what is
effectively the longest navigable underground river in the world at 8.2
kilometers. It’s all fairly spectacular with cathedral sized caverns, a
100-meter high tower and interesting rock formations, all according to the
guide resembling types of fruit or religious icons, although I would question
his interpretation. Poor lighting powered by a failing car battery, however,
spoilt the experience for me making it a bit of an anticlimax.
The return journey to San Manuel was
fairly uneventful. It had been a fabulous day, with an excellent guide and
great company to boot with the Manila based family of five from Quezon,
although for the life of me I can’t remember their names. Old age setting in!
Local bus to San Raphael beach
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| The superb San Raphael beach, quiet, remote and undiscovered |
My original plan on the last day in
Palawan, the 30th December, head to the west coast and Nagtabon
beach, but like most things here transportation is the key. I settled on a bus,
or rather shared van to San Raphael as the more accessible option. It’s about 50
or so kilometers along the east coast and north of where I’m staying. About an
hour or so plus the hour wait for all the places to be filled.
San Raphael, as I’m beginning to
realize, is reflective of Palawan in general, isolated, remote, beautiful and
undiscovered. The village is simple, spread out and with space between and
around each dwelling. There are a few local style shops, eateries, a school and
surprisingly a basic university all lost pretty much in the trees. The beach is
wide and a mixture of sand and gravel. There are no beach bars, hotels, places
to stay or any real development along this pristine coastline and like Sabang
it’s stunningly beautiful!
Apart from the 3 young girls searching
for crabs and two groups of fishermen trawling for fish I was completely alone.
No noise just the sloshing of the sea against the shore as a companion.
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| San Raphael beach all to myself |
Conscientious of the time, on the way
to the village I noted a small beach side hotel about 5 kilometers along the
coast, I thought I’d walk there, have some lunch and then catch the return bus
back to town. It was a beautiful day so why not.
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| Beautiful setting and no one else around |
It turns out that an Englishman
formerly from Newcastle owns the place, a Palawan resident now for over 20
years. The food was good as was the entertainment, native boys and the irate
owner trying to haul in a newly purchased and stricken local boat, sinking fast
in shallow water after being holed on one side. I offered my services at one
point and was quickly rebuffed, so I left them to their own devices, much to
the amusement of the local girls and staff.
New Year in Cebu, Mactan Island
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| Palawan to Cebu |
31st December I decided to
head back to Cebu for New Year and then to Mindanao and Butuan airport the
following morning the 1st January 2012 effectively to meet up with
Mary and her family.
Mactan
Waterfront Hotel & Casino
- New Years Eve was comparatively uneventful at the Mactan Hotel situated just
across the road from the airport. After an excellent if somewhat expensive
diner at around 9.30pm, a bottle or two of wine, I shuffled off to bed at about
10.45pm.
Four days in Gingoog City, Mindanao
Returning to Mindanao to spend time with a good friend
- You may recollect that Mary and I bumped into each other at the
Gingoog bus terminal. We spent three days previous together, at times in
the company of her family and friends. At some point on Palawan I
decided that I wanted to see her again, booking a flight to Butuan on
the 1st January and thence from Butuan to Manila for the connecting trip
on the 5th back to Kota Kinabalu (via Clarke). Mary was waiting as agreed at
Butuan airport having set out from her home town at about 11.00am, all
we need to do now was grab some lunch and a yellow bus back the 2-hours
to Gingoog City.
There's not much that you can say
about Butuan city, so I won't, the journey along the coastal road,
however, was both mountainous, scenic and beautiful, with distant views
of Camiguin Island topped with its 7 volcanoes.
After checking in and
spending a night in the one hotel in town, we decided to spend the
following day zip lining at Dahilyan Adventure Park and then shopping in central Cagayan De Oro.
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| Getting kitted out for the Dahilyan descent |
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| Mary and I at the top of the 800m zip-lin |
The
process of getting around, as I think I've said on numerous occasions,
is not straight forward here, having someone that speaks the
language helps considerably.
The day started just across the road from the hotel at the city bus station.
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| Kitted out with harness and helmet |
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| A successful descent - Dahilyan Adventure Park |
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| Head first down the longest zip-line in the Philippines |
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| At the bottom after a successful descent |
It's the 2nd January, many people with family's and homes in Gingoog were returning to CDO (Cagayan De Oro) to their jobs in the city. The 'Yellow Buses' were full to capacity with many more waiting to board. We managed, however, to sneak a lift on a Mary's friends mini-bus to the outskirts of CDO, or the suburb known as Bugo. Its then an hours drive by crowded jeepnie to Camp Philips, once part of the Del Monte plantation.
Laid out with beautiful, numbered and sizable colonial built wooden houses, schools, parks and the like for the many workers the huge ex Del Monte estate still supplies millions of pineapples amongst other produce to the massive processing plant in CDO.
The final stage of the trip is on the back of a trail-bike the 18 kilometres across very rough track through the DM estate to Mt. Kitanglad Range National Park and the Dahilyan Adventure Park.
We started at 9.00am arriving at 2.30pm.
The track up to the Park takes you through beautiful countryside, more akin to parts of Europe then the Philippines, with its lush, mountainous backdrop. The Adventure Park itself reminds me of a French resort lodge or hotel, without the snow that is!
You're confronted by the lodge perched on a hill and two raised covered platforms, one directly in front and the culmination of the 800 meter zip-line then off to the right, slightly higher, is the jump off for points for the 250 & 320 meter line.
Kitted out (helmet & harness) you climb aboard a custom made 4 x 4 that takes you about a 1,000 meters up a rough track to a raised and covered platform. Helmet and harness on you're hoisted into position, looking face down the mountain at the trees and valley many meters below and you're off, Mary alongside on a tandem cable.
Great fun. After a quick lunch we're off back down the mountain to catch a mini-bus to CDO, eventually arriving at about 5.30pm.
We spent the rest of the day shopping, enjoying a late supper returning back to Gingoog about 1/2 past midnight.
Day three - spent round the city, visiting friends, lunch at Mary's favourite restaurant and then diner with Ellen, Kristine and Mary in the evening.
Day four - Mary and I headed back to Duka beach. Mary's friend Kristine has invited me to attend her wedding on the 14th June, to be held at the Duka Beach Resort, so we checked out a room whilst we were there.
Day five - 5.30am start, with bus to Butuan airport for the schedule departure of 9.45am to Manila.
Return trip to Kota Kinabalu and Malaysia
The plan was to fly from Butuan airport
on the 5th January to Manila and then catch a connecting bus to
Clarke airport, north of the capital city. I’d allowed 5 hours so no problem,
or so you would think.
Cebu Pacific is equivalent to Air Asia,
in providing reasonably easy access round the Philippine Islands at a
competitive price, that is to say in all but one area being on time!!
Eight flights and only one at the
stated time, Butuan to Manila proved no different from the rest arriving 1¼ hour
later than expected. There are no connecting services, Manila to Clark, by plane
so it’s an overland trip.
Airport shuttle bus to
within a mile of the Victoria Line terminal, one-mile walk to the terminal and
then a bus to Angeles city (50 kilometers
north of Manila) bus terminal (you
would think there’d be a service to the airport, there isn’t), tricycle to
the nearby Jeepnie terminal (tricycles
aren’t allowed inside the huge military base and private airport) and then
a Jeepnie the 5 kilometers to International Departures (not possible to walk within the available time).
We finally arrived with about 10
minutes to spare and at the cost of commandeering the Jeepnie all to myself and
paying over the odds to the tricycle owner thinking that he was taking me to
within walking distance of the terminal.
It didn’t end there, I had to pay the highest exit tax so far and then
stand in a queue presenting some absurd details about my travels around the
Philippines.
It would seem that the only benefit in
all of this is to the various links in the chain, shuttle, bus, tricycle,
Jeepnie and customs, at the expensive of the tourist.
Heading back to Borneo
Essentially I needed to go back to pick-up some stuff that I left with Camps International to mind whilst travelling the Philippines, in reality I'd already determined to dump most of it and continue travelling as light as possible, its so mush easier.
It was also a chance to meet up and say farewell to all my CI chums.
Flying back to Bangkok, via Kuala Lumpur
Oddly enough Air Asia seems to be
blighted by the same problem now as Cebu Pacific, both the 7.05am flight from
Kota Kinabalu to Kuala Lumpur and then the 1.40pm flight onward to Bangkok were
both late. The saving grace, however, unlike Malaysia, Indonesia and the Philippines
there is a credible bus service that runs directly from the airport to my next
destination, Pattaya.
Pattaya southeast Thailand
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| Pattaya city, bay and beach area |
Pattaya City is an internationally well-known seaside resort, vibrant by
night and day with a colourful potpourri of nationalities (mainly Russian,
German, American, Indian, Chinese and Japanese).
Its bright, loud, intense,
crass and one dimensional to a degree; the self-indulgent pleasures of the flesh
and body - booze, food, being pampered and sex! It’s plane to see and openly
on display, young, old, fat, thin, attractive, not so attractive,
transvestites, lady boys all semi-naked strutting their stuff unabashed.
The city attracts more than its fair share of
eccentric tourists, desperate to hang onto their youth oblivious of the effect
that they create on others. Clearly anything and everything goes here,
boundaries are crossed and accepted as the norm.
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| The crowded beach and bay around Pattaya |
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| One of the many busy streets in Pattaya |
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| Entrance to Walking Street the famous red light district |
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| Built up side streets leading to the beach and close to the hotel |
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| Beach Promenade along Pattaya Beach Road |
The narrow half-moon-shaped sandy beach is 4 kilometers long with a road
and promenade running parallel to the beachfront. There is an incredible array
of restaurants, bars, all sorts of clubs, department stores, souvenir stores,
as well as other places of entertainment.
Located on the east coast of the Gulf of Thailand about 165 km
southeast of Bangkok in the province of Chonburi. The sprawling City of many faces is a self-governing municipality encompassing Tambon, Nong, Na Kluea, Huai Yai and Nong Pla Lai with a population
exceeding 1,000,000.
On a personal note it wasn’t a place that I took to, I’m glad that
I visited it as much as anything to cross it off the list. It’s unfriendly,
aggressive in your face kind of place for those looking primarily for a
particular type of holiday in the sun.
Along the coast to Koh Chang
Moving on, it was time to head further along the coast to the Koh
Chang. It’s an island off of the mainland coast, once an outpost near the
‘worn-torn’ Cambodian border.
Issues still bubble on today between the two countries
interestingly enough, with some recent sabre rattling between the two military forces
occurring around Psar Pruham. Tourists had to be evacuated for a short period
until matters were resolved.
The drive across country by local bus to Rayong bus station, a
massive industrial coastal city, was uneventful, slow but uneventful. Wherever
you look, huge oil refineries, chemical plants and production plants on a scale
that you use to see in the UK dominate the outer city skyline, it begs the
question were did we go so wrong as a producer of goods.
From Rayong it’s a mini-bus trip, much
faster to Laem Negop a simple ferry port serving to the island.
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| Ferry from Laem Hegop to the Island in the distance |
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Island of Koh Chang
Koh Chang, was a once an undiscovered
destination where hippies revelled in some of Southeast Asia’s best-untamed
forest and isolated coast, Koh Chang has lost its ‘virginity’. It’s still an
extraordinarily beautiful place with high emerald veld Limestone Mountains and
wide white sandy beaches but its commercialized.
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| Emerald veld pinnacles on the Island of Koh Chang |
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| White Sand Beach on the island of Koh Chang |
The occasional narrow strip of
reasonably flat land is home too intense, seemingly indiscriminate construction,
although generally no more than four floors high. Some is sympathetic some not
so, little is visible from the seaward side invariably concealed by the dense
tree cover which is a saving grace.
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| 'White Sand Beach' in the town of Koh Chang |
Were ever you go though, there appears a lack of
organization, development is tardy, rubbish is unceremoniously dumped by the
side of the road with little thought for the visual effect created.
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| The beautiful and famous 'Lonely Beach' on Koh Chang |
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| 'Lonely Beach' posing by one of the many bars/restaurants |
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| 'Lonely Beach' home of Thailand's 2nd Moon Party |
One day I walked and then caught a
shared taxi van to the remote and supposedly idyllic, ‘Lonely Beach’. It’s about
20 kilometers along the coast pretty much isolated from anything other than a
scattering of traditional huts, beach side bars, restaurants and home to the
2nd Moon Party in Thailand.
Where ever you look though, there’s an
accumulation of rubbish. Black sacks dumped by the side of the road, split open
with the contents scattered, on the beach, between, around and behind the
lodges and huts, bottles, waste, building materials, garden rubbish, etc. Walking
back to a scenic coastal promontory, I passed a massive amount of crap dumped over
the side of a bank right in front of a high-class resort.
The bay, white sandy beach, waters and
countryside around ‘Lonely Beach’ are superb. It’s visually stunning, isolated
and on the whole quiet. It’s just been
‘bollocked up, however, by people with only one concern making money. A real
shame and oddly enough, so I understand, tourism is already in decline on the Island, I wonder why!
I stopped to talk to Tom a UK diving
instructor based on the island and he told me that the east coast, the more
remote side, is relatively untouched and well worth a visit, particularly
around Salakphet. This is supposed to be one of
Thailand’s premier holiday destinations and a protected site of Special Natural
Interest clearly the locals and ex-pats have scant regard or any sense of
responsibility for their environment.
The topography at either end of the
island is dramatic, with the roads invariable impassable during times of rain,
mainly due to the steepness of the incline, the incredibly sharp hairpin bends
and the poor quality road surface.
The coastal road, the only road, loops round
most of the island apart from a section at the base near Salakphet. Ten
kilometers separate one side from the other because of the terrain.
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| White Beach Resort, remote and idyllic |
I arranged a day tour round the island the following day. Chang, my driver, and I travelled the coastal road, north of Koh Chang back past the
ferry jetty (that’s all it is) and beyond, looping round the top of the island
and then down the east coast all the way to the southern base and the village
of Salakphet.
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| Chao Po Koh Chang Hindu Temple |
We stopped at ‘White Sand Resort’ as
the name suggests a resort of traditional bamboo huts on the beach, isolated
from the huh-bub of humanity, approached via an incredibly steep road. A Chinese
Hindu temple, Chao Po Koh Chang, on a hill and then
onto a disappointing waterfall called Klong Chao Learm, more of a trickle
really.
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| The unimpressive Klong Chao Learm falls |
At
this point, I think I need to vent a certain amount of frustration. There is a
recurring theme across certain parts of Asia of charging ‘Foreigners’, openly
stated as such, one price and ‘Locals’ another. I think that it’s
counterproductive, discriminatory and offensive. Lack of tourist activity
wherever the policy exists suggests that I am not alone in my opinion. Its common practice across all of the
Philippines, along with charging for access to a beach, Malaysia and for the
first time in Thailand on Koh Chang.
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| The practice in Asia of a two price system |
In
the case of the Koh Chang waterfall, controlled by Park Rangers that appear to
do nothing but sit on their ‘backside’ all day, no effort is made to keep the
area clear of rubbish or create a safe pathway to walk on. It’s the cynical
collection of money for money’s sake and to be honest it isn’t worth the detour
in the first place!
Moving on we stopped off at a stilted
village with an option to paddle through the mangroves, which I declined, and
then to, at long last, something worth stopping for ‘Wat Salakphet’. Currently
being renovated, a 9 nine-year program, comprising a typical Thai Buddhist
temple both elaborate, colourful and intricate in its presentation.
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| Intricate carving & moulding above the main entrance |
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| Wat Salakphet - Buddha Shrine |
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| One of two wall tapestries depicting the life of Buddha |
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| Ebony & inlaid hand-crafted shell to the shutter |
The exterior is typical of temples
across Thailand. Inside there are two large tapestries adorning the length of
two walls depicting the life of Buddha with the individual window shutters of made
of ebony inlaid with hand crafted coral or shell following the same theme. A
thing of real beauty and at long last the first example that I’ve seen on the
island of, ‘a pride of ownership’.
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| The stunning exterior to Wat Salakphet - Koh Chang |
The culmination of our outward journey
the bay around Salakphet and lunch at the ‘Salakphet Resort’. All of the
properties traditional in style, restaurants, shops, bars, ‘places of stay’ or
homes and residences, protrude into the bay and are raised on stilts above the
water.
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| Serene Salakphet Bay taken from Resort of the same name |
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| Salakphet Resort |
The area is serene, the bay enclosed
seemingly on all sides by a smattering of green veld, sparsely populated
islands and the mainland. There’s an odd yacht or two moored in the azure
waters. There’s a prevailing sense of peace and tranquility here.
The second reason today for taking the
tour, clearly there is a cause to come to Koh Chang but its fast being diluted
by a desire to ruin what is here, through greed, ignorance and disrespect for
their heritage and environment.
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| Surrounding bay and mountains around Salakphet |
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| Lunchtime at the excellent Salakphet restaurant |
One thing is certain there is no way
that I would return here, its expensive, incredibly so, disappointing and at
time crass with the many girlie bars springing up indiscriminately. More
importantly it’s attracting a particular type of tourist similar to that of Pattaya.
Thai people are incredibly friendly normally, unfortunately the converse is true
here, I suspect a reaction and exposure to difficult and troublesome foreigners.
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| The beautiful 'White Sand Beach' and mountains beyond |
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| Shanty town at the far end of White Sand Beach |
Just when you think you’ve got a place
figured out something comes along to change you’re point of view. Wandering
along White Sandy Beach today to the headland or rocky promontory, its about 4
kilometers from one side to the other, I stumbled on a Bohemian style shanty
town resort. Huts, some over two floors, primitive, traditional and eclectic in
their presentation, perched on the rock face culminating in the aptly named
‘Rock Beach Resort’. There’s a restaurant, with accommodation over at 600Baht a
night, and sundeck about 20’ feet above the sea built onto, into and above the
rocky promontory itself. It serves good food, provides excellent service and
you can enjoy an elevated view of the beach and bay beyond, perfect.
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| Beach-side accommodation |
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| Funky 'Rock Beach Resort' restaurant & accommodation |
Clearly Koh Chang is one of those
places that you have to search hard for what makes the perfect holiday for you.
It’s a place worth visiting though perhaps as a shortstop over before crossing
into or returning from Cambodia or as a beach holiday destination that’s close
to central Bangkok.
Return to Bangkok
Well I’d managed to find a direct bus service,
almost that is, from Koh Chang to Bangkok airport for about 400Baht, including
ferry ticket and Hotel collection. The alternative, take an open taxi-van to
the jetty, 60 to 100Baht, ferry ticket, 70Baht, and then a mini-bus to Bangkok
900Baht or the Red bus at 500Baht.
The BTS sky train links the airport
terminal with the center of the city and the MRT (underground) railway network
so a good way of getting there.
The mini-bus pick-up at the hotel was
early, the ferry crossing late (oddly enough the local driver managed to miss
the ferry turn-off, only after the Thai girl that he was more interested in
chatting up than the task in hand, mentioned it), the bus on the mainland
arrived late 2.20pm rather than 1.00pm the scheduled time, so nothing really
running to plan. No problem for me most people on the bus were, however, flying
home to Europe with set times of departure.
The one saving grace I reacquainted
myself with a German lady who I’d met previously returning from Lonely Beach on
one of the shared vans. Pieta’s from a town in Bavaria, although I can’t
remember the name, we talked for hours about the merits and disappointments of
Koh Chang and concluded that it was a place to visit only once.
We finally arrived at the airport about
9.00p.m; just enough time for most to check-in and still catch their respective
plane home. The MRT station is on the lower ground floor, modern and with an
efficient service to Makkasan central station, its then just a short walk to
the hotel in Phetchaburi.
Meeting Matthew & his friend Joe
My brother’s son Matthew and his friend
Joe had decided to holiday for a month or so in Thailand, for four of those
days in Bangkok, so we’d arranged to meet up and spend time together.
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| Matthew and I in a Bangkok restaurant |
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| Friends Joe and Matthew |
The first day was all about
reacquainting myself and guiding Joe and Matt round the suburbs, introducing
them to the nuances of life in Bangkok and its transportation system. They’re
staying in the lap of luxury at the 5-star ‘Grand Four Wing’s’; I on the other
hand am lodging in the ‘Bangkok Boutique Hotel’, fortunately just an 80Baht
metered taxi ride apart.
Day two, they were keen to see the
Grand Palace amongst other things so I suggested meeting at the MRT
(underground station) in Sukhumvit, from there it’s a trip to the end of the
line and Huh Lamphong station, shared tricycle to the canal and boat trip to
Gold Mountain.
Gold
Mountain & Wat Saket - The grubby yellow hill
crowned with a gleaming gold Chedi is also known as the Golden Mount, or 'Phu
Khao Thong'. It rises within the compound of Wat Saket, an unusual temple that
houses Buddha relics; a golden cupola surmounts the 58-metre-high Chedi.
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| Matthew & Joe posing in the courtyard of Wat Saket |
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| The beautiful courtyard and Wat Saket |
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| Gold Mountain in the distance |
Built by King Rama I just outside the
new city walls, the late-18th century temple served as the capital's
crematorium. During the following 100 years, the temple became the dumping
ground for some 60,000-plague victims.
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| Joe laying an offering at the foot of the Ched |
The Golden Mount was added to the compound in
the early 19th century, when King Rama III built a huge Chedi, which collapsed
into a hill of rubble. Buddhist belief holds that religious buildings cannot be
destroyed, and many years later King Rama V topped the debris with another Chedi
in which he placed relics, believed by some to be the Buddha's teeth.
There are 318 steps to the terrace and
provides for a magnificent panoramic view of Bangkok.
Wat
Ratchanatdaram Worawihan - Dating from the mid 19th Century
the royal temple Wat Ratchanadda cuts an unusual figure when seen alongside its
Rattanakosin companions.
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| Matt, Joe and I posing inside Ratchanatdaram temple |
This square-shaped castle is a replica of one
in India, standing 36 metres high and with 37 spires representing the 37
Bodhipak Khiyadhamma - the virtues leading to enlightenment. It was extensively
embellished during the reigns of King Rama V and VI. Similar structures in
India and Sri Lanka are now in ruins so this is the only one of its kind left
in the world.
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| Wat Ratchanadda modeled on an Indian design |
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| Matt & Joe looking worried in a posh Thai restaurant |
After a tour round the two temples, we walked
part way towards the Grand Palace, I guess about a kilometre, stopping for an
excellent lunch at one of the few restaurants open that day. A lot are closed
out of respect for the Chinese New Year. Afterwards it was a 2-kilometre walk,
the remaining distance, through Wide Streets and parkland to the Palace.
Grand Palace - If there is one must-see sight that no
visit to Bangkok would be complete without, it's the dazzling, spectacular
Grand Palace, undoubtedly the city's most famous landmark. Built in 1782 - and
for 150 years the home of the Thai King, the Royal court and the administrative
seat of government - the Grand Palace of Bangkok is a grand old dame indeed,
that continues to have visitors in awe with its beautiful architecture and
intricate detail, all of which is a proud salute to the creativity and
craftsmanship of Thai people.
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| Grand Palace Bangkok |
Within the palace complex are several
impressive buildings including Wat Phra Kaew, which contains the small, very
famous and greatly revered Emerald Buddha that date’s back to the 14th century.
Robes are placed on the Buddha and changed with the seasons by HM The King of Thailand.
The 25th, Matt & Joe caught
the overnight sleeper train from Huh Lamphong to Chumphon and then a ferry to
Koh Tao, I on the other hand decided to fly north to he ancient mountain city
of Chiang Mai.
Chiang Mai the
city of temples
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| One of the fabled white elephants guarding the temple entrance |
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| Interior of Wat Lok Molee |
It’s just over an hour to Chiang Mai
known as the ‘Rose of the North’.
According to ancient chronicles it was founded by King Mengrai in 1296 A.D. and
became the capital of the Lan Na Thai Province, Kingdom of a Million Rice
fields. The city today, which celebrated its 700th anniversary in 1996, has
evolved over many centuries. It is now the second most important city in the
country after Bangkok and the main city in the northern region. It is a city of
350 temples, ancient arts and crafts continuing the proud tradition of Lan Na
Thai.
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| Wat Lok Molee with the ancient 13th century Chedi |
Located north of
Thailand, about 720 kilometres from Bangkok at an elevation of 1,027 feet (310
meters) above sea level with a population of 250,000. To the west it borders with
Myanmar (Burma), to the south the Sam Ngao district and Province of Tak, to the
north Chiang Rai with Lamphun and Lampang lying east.
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| Golden tree of promises - Wat Lok Molee |
The amusing taxi driver took me the 5 or so
kilometers to the hotel and I realized at that point I would like the city and
its people. A point of note, it’s a good system in Chiang Mai, walk over to one
of several kiosks stationed by the airport exit, pay a set price of 120Baht for
the airport to hotel transfer, you’re issued a ticket which you give to the
driver and off you go. No haggling, nice and straightforward.
The next day wandering round the city and
seeing the sights confirmed my initially reaction. It’s not particularly hot
here in comparison with Bangkok at the moment, there’s so much to see and the
people are just so friendly.
Wat
Chedi Luang - Built
sometime between 1385 and 1402, during the reign of King Saen Muang Ma, 7th
ruler of the Mengrai dynasty, Wat Luang's massive Chedi or Pagoda is a
distinctive feature of the Chiang Mai skyline. We first constructed the Chedi
measured 60 metres across at the square base and 80 metres tall, once home to
the Emerald Buddha, Thailand's most sacred religious relic.
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| Wat Luang in central Chaing Mai |
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| Wat Luang's massive Chedi original 80m tall |
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| Massive partial restored elephants that adorn the side of the Chedi |
Damaged during an earthquake in 1545, the Chedi’s
height is reduced to nearly half of its original size yet it is still an
impressive structure. In 1992, the Fine Arts Department finished restoration work
around the Chedi, bringing back the Naga (water serpent) staircase on each of
its faces and wonderful statues of elephants adorning the base. The actual work
on the Chedi itself, however, was never quite complete, leaving it in its
present state.
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| The Naga water serpents line the four staircases |
On the temple’s
premise are several structures of great cultural significance, including the
city pillar (Intakin), main Wiharn housing the principal Buddha image and a
giant gum tree guarding the temple’s entrance. According to ancient Lanna
beliefs, the city pillar is erected at the epicenter of the city, to mark the
center of the universe, which in the past was the Lanna Kingdom. Dwarfing the
city pillar shrine is one of the three gum trees believed to protect the city
from all ills, legend has it that if this tree ever falls, a great catastrophe
will follow.
Wat Phra
Singh - perhaps the second most venerated temple
in Chiang Mai after Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. It houses three main structures,
the main attraction being the elegantly decorated Lai Kam assembly hall and its
restored murals depicting the lives of locals hundreds of years ago.
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| Venerated Wat Phra Singh |
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| The many temples that for Wat Phra Singh |
Located inside the old city wall, at the
western end of Ratchadamnoen Road, the temple’s signature Lanna-style roofs and
glittering viharn (assembly hall) invite visitors. The walled-in temple
compound is busy with visitors and worshippers all year round.
Day two - 12 people and I took an organised tour to what was billed as a
typical traditional hill-tribe village. Given the number of tour vans and
mini-buses vying for a space to drop there load and the number of strangers
wandering around the many stalls, any connection with their past has probably
evaporated in favour of commercialism. The
second and for more interesting part of the trip a visit to the mountain top
temple of Doi Sethep.
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| The crowded hill-tribe village of Doi Pui |
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| Villagers of Doi Pui in traditional attire |
Doi Suthep - is a constant part of life in Chiang Mai. A Thai saying goes,
"If you haven't tasted Khao Soi or seen the view from Doi Suthep, you
haven't been to Chiang Mai." This regal mountain overlooks the city from
the northwest, providing commanding views from its summit. Aside from its
dominating presence on the horizon, Doi Suthep is the home of some of the most
deeply loved symbols in the Kingdom.
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| View from the mountain Wat of Doi Suthep |
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| Doi Suthep mountain top temple |
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| Golden Chedi Wat Doi Suthep |
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| Inner sanctum of the Doi Suthep |
In
1981 Doi Suthep, Doi Pui and Doi Buakha, along with the 161 square kilometres
(62 square miles) of forest in which they are located, became Thailand's 24th
national park. A year later a 100 square kilometre (38 square mile) annex was
added, bringing the park's total area up to 261 square kilometres (100 square
miles). Dense forests hang from the mountain's shoulders like a cloak;
deciduous at lower elevations and evergreen near the peaks of the mountains.
Day three – A trip by mini-bus, two hours each way, with 12 other people,
six Malaysian, two Singaporeans, a Irish lady, an Australian and two Austrians,
to Wachirathan waterfall, a high point or mountain-top, Doi Inthanon National
Park, twin Royal Pagodas and Mat Tao hill-tribe village with lunch on the
way. I’ll let the photo’s do the
talking.
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| Wachirathan waterfall |
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| Royal Pagoda built to celebrate the Queens 60th birthday |
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| The two 60th birthday mountain top Pagodas |
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| View from the mountain Royal Pagoda terrace |
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| Hill-top tribal village home to displaced Burmese people |
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| Traditional hand woven local cloth produced in the village |
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| It takes three days to make one scarf - local villagers at work |
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Day four - A day of Thai cooking at
the Thai Farm cooking school on the outskirts of Chiang Mai. Fantastic Poi Puri
of nationalities, about 30 students all told, six teachers in a lovely rural
farm setting where they grow a lot of the raw ingredients. On the menu, how to
cook rice and sticky rice the Thai way, Tom Yum shrimp soup, Chicken Green Thai
curry, sweet & sour stir fry chicken, springs rolls and sticky coconut
creamed rice and mango.
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| Wide choice of produce at the Chiang Mai market |
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| Our Thai teacher introducing us to the variety of different rice |
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| Dried, smoked and fried fish at the Chiang Mai market |
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| 'Thai Farm' kitchen on the outskirts of Chiang Mai |
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| Tour of the farm garden and ingredients used |
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| Green Thai Curry, Stir fry Sweet & Sour Chicken and Thai Rice |
Bus to Chiang Mai and the Golden Triangle
Well today is the 31st January and
its time to move on yet again, this time further north still to Chiang Mai,
close to both the Myanmar and Laos borders and the center of the Golden
Triangle.
Well that's it for this month. Visiting the Islands of Palawan and then Mindanao, back to Manila, all in the Philippines, before flying to Kota Kinabalu then Kula Lumpur in Malaysia. Bangkok to Pattaya, the island of Koh Chang, near the Cambodian border, before returning to Bangkok for 4 days. Flight to Chang Mai and then bus to Chiang Rai, a real loop round Asia.
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