Trip to Thailand - Journal no.15
3rd May to the 30th May 2011
Suvarnabhumi International Airport, Bangkok
We arrived at Suvarnabhumi International Airport just outside the city of Bangkok as scheduled late afternoon on the 3rd May and I headed the 20 km by taxi to the suburb of Bangna, still 10 km from the city centre.
3rd May to the 30th May 2011
Suvarnabhumi International Airport, Bangkok
We arrived at Suvarnabhumi International Airport just outside the city of Bangkok as scheduled late afternoon on the 3rd May and I headed the 20 km by taxi to the suburb of Bangna, still 10 km from the city centre.
Passing through Bangkok passport and immigration is a bit of a long-winded affair, all the more strange since it’s a comparatively new airport. You would have thought that the capacity to deal with the hoards of travellers flooding into Bangkok would have been factored in at the outset during the design phase. It took about an hour standing in a disorganized queue, with seemingly no provision for those that had obtained a visa prior to arrival over those that hadn’t.
A point of note Bangkok taxi drivers are the worst when it comes to finding a given destination. It’s a given that Bangkok is huge and there must be thousands of hotels, however, we stumbled on my hotel more by accident than design. I’d deliberately opted for a well known ‘place-of-stay’ to ensure an easy transfer after a long flight.
‘Oakwood Residence Garden Towers’, Bangna
Two superb nights in luxurious accommodation, the only problem it’s so very isolated. Comprising two huge 17-storey apartment blocks and rooms with a large out door pool, behind the second building, set in landscaped grounds.
In front there’s small mall, bank and office complex next to the main 6-carriage road and 6-lane fly-over and that’s it. It’s about a 5-kilometer walk along the busy main road to two larger malls, banks and anything of interest.
After a couple of days it was time to move on by train to the city of Phetchaburi, south of Bangkok.
A free hotel shuttle-bus took me to the nearest BTS or Skytrain station, namely ‘On Nut’, it’s then a question of travelling six stops to ‘Asoke’ where supposedly you take the modern underground from Sukhumvit all the way round to Hua Lamphong train station, virtually on the opposite side of the city.
All seems very easy in hindsight, at the time it wasn’t. You’re not completely sure where you are, its difficult to find a sign or helpful person that understands what you’re saying to re-direct you, having to hump luggage up and down many flights of steps in the heat and humidity, unclear what the procedure is insofar as the ticket machines, etc., etc. After four changes of vehicle I finally arrived at the mainline station only to have to wait 3 hours for the train to depart.
Facts about Thailand and Bangkok
Thailand, officially the Kingdom of Thailand formerly known as Siam, is a country located at the centre of the Indochina peninsula in Southeast Asia. Bordered to the north by Burma and Laos, to the east by Laos and Cambodia, to the south the Gulf of Thailand and Malaysia, and to the west by the Andaman Sea and the southern extremity of Burma.
Its maritime boundaries include Vietnam in the Gulf of Thailand to the southeast, and Indonesia and India in the Andaman Sea to the southwest.
A point of note Bangkok taxi drivers are the worst when it comes to finding a given destination. It’s a given that Bangkok is huge and there must be thousands of hotels, however, we stumbled on my hotel more by accident than design. I’d deliberately opted for a well known ‘place-of-stay’ to ensure an easy transfer after a long flight.
‘Oakwood Residence Garden Towers’, Bangna
Two superb nights in luxurious accommodation, the only problem it’s so very isolated. Comprising two huge 17-storey apartment blocks and rooms with a large out door pool, behind the second building, set in landscaped grounds.
In front there’s small mall, bank and office complex next to the main 6-carriage road and 6-lane fly-over and that’s it. It’s about a 5-kilometer walk along the busy main road to two larger malls, banks and anything of interest.
After a couple of days it was time to move on by train to the city of Phetchaburi, south of Bangkok.
A free hotel shuttle-bus took me to the nearest BTS or Skytrain station, namely ‘On Nut’, it’s then a question of travelling six stops to ‘Asoke’ where supposedly you take the modern underground from Sukhumvit all the way round to Hua Lamphong train station, virtually on the opposite side of the city.
All seems very easy in hindsight, at the time it wasn’t. You’re not completely sure where you are, its difficult to find a sign or helpful person that understands what you’re saying to re-direct you, having to hump luggage up and down many flights of steps in the heat and humidity, unclear what the procedure is insofar as the ticket machines, etc., etc. After four changes of vehicle I finally arrived at the mainline station only to have to wait 3 hours for the train to depart.
Facts about Thailand and Bangkok
Thailand, officially the Kingdom of Thailand formerly known as Siam, is a country located at the centre of the Indochina peninsula in Southeast Asia. Bordered to the north by Burma and Laos, to the east by Laos and Cambodia, to the south the Gulf of Thailand and Malaysia, and to the west by the Andaman Sea and the southern extremity of Burma.
Its maritime boundaries include Vietnam in the Gulf of Thailand to the southeast, and Indonesia and India in the Andaman Sea to the southwest.
The country is a constitutional monarchy, headed by King Rama IX, the ninth king of the House of Chakri, who, having reigned since 1946, is the world's longest-serving head of state and the longest-reigning monarch in Thai history. The king of Thailand is titled Head of State, Head of the Armed Forces, the Upholder of the Buddhist religion, and the Defender of all Faiths.
Thailand is the world's 51st-largest country in terms of total area, with an area of approximately 513,000 km2 or 198,000 square miles and the 20th-most-populous country, with around 64 million people.
About 75% of the population is ethnically Thai, 14% is of Chinese origin, and 3% is ethnically Malay; the rest belong to minority groups including Mons, Khmers and various hill tribes.
The country's official language is Thai with the primary religion Buddhism, practiced by around 95% of the population.
Thailand is the world's 51st-largest country in terms of total area, with an area of approximately 513,000 km2 or 198,000 square miles and the 20th-most-populous country, with around 64 million people.
About 75% of the population is ethnically Thai, 14% is of Chinese origin, and 3% is ethnically Malay; the rest belong to minority groups including Mons, Khmers and various hill tribes.
The country's official language is Thai with the primary religion Buddhism, practiced by around 95% of the population.
Thailand has experienced rapid economic growth between 1985 and 1995, and is presently a newly industrialized country and a major exporter. Tourism also contributes significantly to the Thai economy, as the country is home to a number of well-known tourist destinations, including Ayutthaya, Pattaya, Bangkok, Phuket, Krabi, Chiang Mai, Hua Hin and Ko Samui.
Bangkok is the capital city of and largest urban area in Thailand. It is known in Thai as Krung Thep Maha Nakhon or simply Krung Thep, meaning "city of angels".
Bangkok is by far the most densely populated city in Thailand with about 12 million people.
Originally a small trading post near the mouth of the Chao Phraya River during the Ayutthaya Kingdom in the 15th century, it eventually grew in size and became the site of two capital cities: Thonburi in 1768 and Rattanakosin in 1782.
Because of its strategic location in Southeast Asia, Siam (later Thailand) acted as a buffer zone between the French and British colonial empires.
Bangkok itself has gained a reputation as an independent, dynamic and influential city, the political, social and economic centre of Thailand, and one of the leading cities in Southeast Asia.
Due to the 1980s and 1990s Asian investment boom, many multinational corporations moved their regional headquarters to Bangkok. Its increasing influence on global politics, culture, fashion and entertainment underlines its status as an Alpha global city.
In 2009, it was the second most expensive city in South-East Asia behind Singapore. The city's many cultural landmarks and attractions in addition to its nightlife venues have made it synonymous with exoticism. Its rapid modernization, reflected in the cityscape and the urban society, has left untouched the historic Grand Palace, Wat Arun, Vimanmek Palace Complex and hundreds of Buddhist temples drawing about 10 million International visitors each year, second only to London.
Bangkok has an official population of 8,249,117 residents, while the greater Bangkok area contains some 14,565,520 - Census of 2010).
It is served by two international airports: Suvarnabhumi Airport and Don Mueang International Airport, four rapid transit lines operated by the BTS, MRT, and the SRT, with plans to add additional lines by 2020.
Slow train south
The 3rd class train from Bangkok 160km south to Phetchaburi has to be one of the slowest train-journeys that I’ve ever taken.
It meanders through the poorer residential suburbs of Bangkok, with houses feet-away from the train tracks and where people wander alongside the moving train or across the track with a seeming disregard of the danger. Vendors ply their trade, food, drink and other items getting on and off the carriages along the route.
Bangkok is the capital city of and largest urban area in Thailand. It is known in Thai as Krung Thep Maha Nakhon or simply Krung Thep, meaning "city of angels".
Bangkok is by far the most densely populated city in Thailand with about 12 million people.
Originally a small trading post near the mouth of the Chao Phraya River during the Ayutthaya Kingdom in the 15th century, it eventually grew in size and became the site of two capital cities: Thonburi in 1768 and Rattanakosin in 1782.
Because of its strategic location in Southeast Asia, Siam (later Thailand) acted as a buffer zone between the French and British colonial empires.
Bangkok itself has gained a reputation as an independent, dynamic and influential city, the political, social and economic centre of Thailand, and one of the leading cities in Southeast Asia.
Due to the 1980s and 1990s Asian investment boom, many multinational corporations moved their regional headquarters to Bangkok. Its increasing influence on global politics, culture, fashion and entertainment underlines its status as an Alpha global city.
In 2009, it was the second most expensive city in South-East Asia behind Singapore. The city's many cultural landmarks and attractions in addition to its nightlife venues have made it synonymous with exoticism. Its rapid modernization, reflected in the cityscape and the urban society, has left untouched the historic Grand Palace, Wat Arun, Vimanmek Palace Complex and hundreds of Buddhist temples drawing about 10 million International visitors each year, second only to London.
Bangkok has an official population of 8,249,117 residents, while the greater Bangkok area contains some 14,565,520 - Census of 2010).
It is served by two international airports: Suvarnabhumi Airport and Don Mueang International Airport, four rapid transit lines operated by the BTS, MRT, and the SRT, with plans to add additional lines by 2020.
Slow train south
The 3rd class train from Bangkok 160km south to Phetchaburi has to be one of the slowest train-journeys that I’ve ever taken.
It meanders through the poorer residential suburbs of Bangkok, with houses feet-away from the train tracks and where people wander alongside the moving train or across the track with a seeming disregard of the danger. Vendors ply their trade, food, drink and other items getting on and off the carriages along the route.
Once out of the city, nothing changes as we progress along almost at a walking pace, with just a burst of speed every now and then before, out of ‘exhaustion’, the train slows to ‘gather it self’.
One consolation it provided for a great opportunity to commune with the local people eager to share their food and their time with you.
The religious town of Phetchaburi
Phetchaburi, locally known as Muang Phetch, is located 160 kilometers south of Bangkok and one of Thailand’s Central Regional Provinces. Situated on the western shore of the Gulf of Thailand it borders the country of Myanmar or Burma.
During the reign of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya Kingdoms, Phetchaburi was a strategic royal fort ruled by Kings.
In the Rattanakosin Era, the three Kings, Rama IV, V, and VI established their retreats here each building a palace, giving rise to the name Muang Sam Wang or the city of the three Palaces.
One consolation it provided for a great opportunity to commune with the local people eager to share their food and their time with you.
The religious town of Phetchaburi
Phetchaburi, locally known as Muang Phetch, is located 160 kilometers south of Bangkok and one of Thailand’s Central Regional Provinces. Situated on the western shore of the Gulf of Thailand it borders the country of Myanmar or Burma.
During the reign of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya Kingdoms, Phetchaburi was a strategic royal fort ruled by Kings.
In the Rattanakosin Era, the three Kings, Rama IV, V, and VI established their retreats here each building a palace, giving rise to the name Muang Sam Wang or the city of the three Palaces.
The province is also known for its splendid historical park, ancient temples, wonderful beaches and caves, as well as a great variety of local fresh seafood.
The majority of the local residents are engaged in agricultural including rice farming, upland crop farming, fruit farming, palm sugar production and animal husbandry along with sea and fresh water fishing.
Exploring the area
We finally arrived late afternoon at Phetchaburi station, although there was nothing to denote it was the right place, my fellow travellers assured me it was though.
I wandered for about an hour trying to find somewhere to stay finding nothing, although I stumbled on the central market, square and many dormitory schools. At one point two young ladies on a motorbike pulled over offering to give me a lift, which I had to decline. I didn’t think a 125cc bike could cope with two ladies, my large rucksack, a day sack and myself. We exchanged pleasantries and they pointed me in the direction of a hotel about a ½ mile further on.
Accommodation sorted, or at least for one night, I moved to another place just down the road for a further 5-day stay whilst I sorted things out with BR Language School, the main reason for being here.
The sprawling city of Phetchaburi is arranged either side of a narrow ridge of steep limestone hills and at the confluence of several rivers. A 20m high statue of Buhhda dominates the range to the right with Palaces and temples to the left. It would seem a place based on education, as there are a considerable number of dormitory schools here, perhaps access to Bangkok and a slightly milder climate are a factor.
Meeting with BR Language School
Things didn’t pane out quite as they or I had intended in so far as teaching English in Thailand. Two issues had come to light both of which would impact on whether it was advisable to work here or not.
1. Regulations governing employment of a foreigner, regulations I hasten to add that have been in force for some time, are only now being rigorously enforced. Random inspections and testing of teachers are being conducted to insure a sufficient level of competence and that all of the relevant paperwork is in place, only right and proper.
2. On the advice of BR Language I delayed applying for my visa until reaching Melbourne, based on they’re past experience.
The Melbourne consulate refused to issue me a type ‘O’ visa, or one-year non-immigration visa, providing two 90-day tourist visas instead. It meant that I couldn’t apply for a work permit. The choice work illegally and suffer the consequences or go elsewhere.
Highlighting my concerns to the principles of BR I made it clear that I would be unable to teach unless matters could be resolved to the Thai authorities satisfaction. I would visit the immigration authorities in Cha Am to see if things could be rectified, if not I would have to modify my future plans and look elsewhere.
Touring the sites of Phetchaburi
Across the road from where I was staying were several hilltop historic buildings. A tracked cable car takes you up the steep incline to the hill top sanctuary where all of the Palaces and temples are accessible. The area is of religious significance so the orange bedecked monks are here in plenty.
The majority of the local residents are engaged in agricultural including rice farming, upland crop farming, fruit farming, palm sugar production and animal husbandry along with sea and fresh water fishing.
Exploring the area
We finally arrived late afternoon at Phetchaburi station, although there was nothing to denote it was the right place, my fellow travellers assured me it was though.
I wandered for about an hour trying to find somewhere to stay finding nothing, although I stumbled on the central market, square and many dormitory schools. At one point two young ladies on a motorbike pulled over offering to give me a lift, which I had to decline. I didn’t think a 125cc bike could cope with two ladies, my large rucksack, a day sack and myself. We exchanged pleasantries and they pointed me in the direction of a hotel about a ½ mile further on.
Accommodation sorted, or at least for one night, I moved to another place just down the road for a further 5-day stay whilst I sorted things out with BR Language School, the main reason for being here.
The sprawling city of Phetchaburi is arranged either side of a narrow ridge of steep limestone hills and at the confluence of several rivers. A 20m high statue of Buhhda dominates the range to the right with Palaces and temples to the left. It would seem a place based on education, as there are a considerable number of dormitory schools here, perhaps access to Bangkok and a slightly milder climate are a factor.
Meeting with BR Language School
Things didn’t pane out quite as they or I had intended in so far as teaching English in Thailand. Two issues had come to light both of which would impact on whether it was advisable to work here or not.
1. Regulations governing employment of a foreigner, regulations I hasten to add that have been in force for some time, are only now being rigorously enforced. Random inspections and testing of teachers are being conducted to insure a sufficient level of competence and that all of the relevant paperwork is in place, only right and proper.
2. On the advice of BR Language I delayed applying for my visa until reaching Melbourne, based on they’re past experience.
The Melbourne consulate refused to issue me a type ‘O’ visa, or one-year non-immigration visa, providing two 90-day tourist visas instead. It meant that I couldn’t apply for a work permit. The choice work illegally and suffer the consequences or go elsewhere.
Highlighting my concerns to the principles of BR I made it clear that I would be unable to teach unless matters could be resolved to the Thai authorities satisfaction. I would visit the immigration authorities in Cha Am to see if things could be rectified, if not I would have to modify my future plans and look elsewhere.
Touring the sites of Phetchaburi
Across the road from where I was staying were several hilltop historic buildings. A tracked cable car takes you up the steep incline to the hill top sanctuary where all of the Palaces and temples are accessible. The area is of religious significance so the orange bedecked monks are here in plenty.
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| Khi Wang & Phra That Chom Phet on temple hill |
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| Temple dedicated to the King Rama IV |
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| Khi Wang & Phra That Chom Phet |
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| Khi Wang & Phra That Chom Phet |
Phra Nakhon Khiri Palace was the first built on the Mountain Range by the late King Rama IV in 1859. It’s studded with Wat’s and components of the Palace such as Wat Mahasamanaram located on the hill-steps and Wat Kaew on the hilltop.
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| Phra Nakhon Khiri palace and museum |
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| Palace terrace and Stupa beyond |
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| Temple dedicated to the King Rama IV |
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| View of the city from the Palace terrace |
The middle peak enshrines the Phra That Chom Phet with the eastern peak housing the Palace of King Rama IV and museum.
Phra Nakhon Khiri Palace
Left, photo of a local Thai lady keen to pose with a tourist in an area not frequented by Westerners.
Phra Nakhon Khiri Palace
Left, photo of a local Thai lady keen to pose with a tourist in an area not frequented by Westerners.
With the gardens and commemorative temple of King Rama IV in the background.
Walk up temple hill
The hillside is lined with sloping cobble paths that connect the various Wat’s, temples and Palaces.
Walk up temple hill
The hillside is lined with sloping cobble paths that connect the various Wat’s, temples and Palaces.
The three sisters in the photo were keen to pose with myself. Clearly tourists are scarce here, more so than the monkeys that inhabits the Palace grounds, and perhaps more willing to pose.
Some of the main temple buildings are part of a Buddhist shrine that date back 500 years; the Palace has clearly been established around the original sacred site.
The city of Cha Am
After spending several days in Phetchaburi, I moved 30km to the seaside resort of Cha Am, in part to sort out the visa but mainly for a change of scenery. One of the ladies working at the hotel that I was staying at in Phetchaburi offered to give me a lift to the Golden Beach hotel where I would be staying in Cha Am.
The city of Cha Am
After spending several days in Phetchaburi, I moved 30km to the seaside resort of Cha Am, in part to sort out the visa but mainly for a change of scenery. One of the ladies working at the hotel that I was staying at in Phetchaburi offered to give me a lift to the Golden Beach hotel where I would be staying in Cha Am.
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| View from the balcony of the Golden Beach hotel |
The city appears to be grouped in two halves, around the principle artery that connects Bangkok with the southern cities and 4km away along a narrow tree-lined road that runs parallel to the beach. Towering hotels, guesthouses, lodges, shops, condominiums and residential units line the 10km long and wide sandy beach.
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| The Rung family, Cha An beach, Thailand |
One weekend I meet and befriend the Rung family, or I should say they took pity on me seeing me wandering along the beach on my own. They invited me to sit with them and share their food. They're from Bangkok and had driven down to Cha Am for the day. We spent the whole day swimming, eating and talking.
The town is primarily a Thai holiday resort so there is little to do during the week, as it’s the low season now. After 5 days it became a bit of a drag and I ventured out to nearby Hua Hin, 26 km away, for two days on the trot just for something to do.
After several meetings with the immigration office, reviewing blog account comments from teachers in Thailand and the Thai visa and work permit requirements, I determined that I wouldn’t be able teach legally, either voluntarily or otherwise without serious consequences. Informing the school accordingly I needed to decided now on what to do next, a plan B.
The first stage, make use of one of the two 90-day tourist visa’s issued to me by the Melbourne Consulate, and see something of the Southern Peninsular of Thailand, taking in the Upper and Lower Gulf, Deep South and Andaman Coast.
Local bus south
By the 15th I‘d had enough, re-distributed my belongings leaving a case of assorted items in storage at the Golden Beach hotel with a promise to return moving on initially by taxi to the crossroads, then a local bus to Hua Hin and finally an A/C bus 6-hours south to Surat Thani.
Arriving in Surat Thani
Surat Thani is exactly as described in the Lonely Planet, ‘People pass through on the way to the South or to Koh Samui rarely staying’. After wandering round, what is a very large sprawling low-rise city of about 1 million people I felt it was time to move on again and explore the islands around Koh Samui.
After several meetings with the immigration office, reviewing blog account comments from teachers in Thailand and the Thai visa and work permit requirements, I determined that I wouldn’t be able teach legally, either voluntarily or otherwise without serious consequences. Informing the school accordingly I needed to decided now on what to do next, a plan B.
The first stage, make use of one of the two 90-day tourist visa’s issued to me by the Melbourne Consulate, and see something of the Southern Peninsular of Thailand, taking in the Upper and Lower Gulf, Deep South and Andaman Coast.
Local bus south
By the 15th I‘d had enough, re-distributed my belongings leaving a case of assorted items in storage at the Golden Beach hotel with a promise to return moving on initially by taxi to the crossroads, then a local bus to Hua Hin and finally an A/C bus 6-hours south to Surat Thani.
Arriving in Surat Thani
Surat Thani is exactly as described in the Lonely Planet, ‘People pass through on the way to the South or to Koh Samui rarely staying’. After wandering round, what is a very large sprawling low-rise city of about 1 million people I felt it was time to move on again and explore the islands around Koh Samui.
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| Images of Surat Thani |
A point of note, the northern bus station is set along the principle road about 6 kilometers from the central city area. Providing transport north to Bangkok, as well as the minor cities of Chumphon, Hua Hin and Cha Am, and west to Ko Sok and the Andaman Sea cities of Phuket and Patong.
Moving south to say the cities of Krabi, Satun or the Malaysian border you need to find you’re your way to the centre of the city. Just look for a collection of mini-buses and the main bus station can be found close-by.
Surat Thani is cited as one of the worst cities for scams, generally in the form of over-priced transportation, for my part I found the people running the buses or mini-buses argumentative and unhelpful. You’ve been warned.
‘Sa-wat-dee krap’ - Translated means ‘Hello’
People have asked me of what I think of Thailand. Clearly there is huge cultural difference, the alphabet, written and spoken words are far removed from our own, food, religion and in some respects philosophy are different.
A close comparative would be India or perhaps India meets Africa. The country is incredibly rich in culture, resources, history, sheer beauty and diversity. It’s a country that is advanced in some things and displays naïve innocence’s in other areas.
Communication or getting around can be a problem here and requires patients, some legwork or orientation and persistence. One tip, don’t always believe what the first person tells you, its not a deliberate attempt to mislead rather a desire to assist whether they have the answer or not.
Bus and ferry to Koh Samui
The trip from Surat Thani to Don Sak was fairly uneventful although, as ever, unclear as to if you’re on the right bus and heading in the right direction. Even that is less important these days, what does it matter in the scheme of things? Sometimes it’s a mistake to upset what life has in store for you.
Moving south to say the cities of Krabi, Satun or the Malaysian border you need to find you’re your way to the centre of the city. Just look for a collection of mini-buses and the main bus station can be found close-by.
Surat Thani is cited as one of the worst cities for scams, generally in the form of over-priced transportation, for my part I found the people running the buses or mini-buses argumentative and unhelpful. You’ve been warned.
‘Sa-wat-dee krap’ - Translated means ‘Hello’
People have asked me of what I think of Thailand. Clearly there is huge cultural difference, the alphabet, written and spoken words are far removed from our own, food, religion and in some respects philosophy are different.
A close comparative would be India or perhaps India meets Africa. The country is incredibly rich in culture, resources, history, sheer beauty and diversity. It’s a country that is advanced in some things and displays naïve innocence’s in other areas.
Communication or getting around can be a problem here and requires patients, some legwork or orientation and persistence. One tip, don’t always believe what the first person tells you, its not a deliberate attempt to mislead rather a desire to assist whether they have the answer or not.
Bus and ferry to Koh Samui
The trip from Surat Thani to Don Sak was fairly uneventful although, as ever, unclear as to if you’re on the right bus and heading in the right direction. Even that is less important these days, what does it matter in the scheme of things? Sometimes it’s a mistake to upset what life has in store for you.
The ferry terminal, a few buildings and a jetty or two, would appear to be anything other than a principle port connecting the mainland with one of the busiest holiday resorts in the Gulf of Thailand. Although in fairness Chumphon, further north, is probably the busier link to the islands surrounding Koh Samui.
It was, as is often the case here, a perfect day for a sea crossing. One thing that never fails to amaze me is the richness of the colours in Asia. Azure and Turquoise of the sea, the Emerald green of the hills and mountains that line the shore and the brilliant blue of the sky, it’s just so extraordinarily evocative and memorable.
It was, as is often the case here, a perfect day for a sea crossing. One thing that never fails to amaze me is the richness of the colours in Asia. Azure and Turquoise of the sea, the Emerald green of the hills and mountains that line the shore and the brilliant blue of the sky, it’s just so extraordinarily evocative and memorable.
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| Fellow passenger that I bumped into |
As you move away from the shore looking back and dotted around the sea are limestone and granite outcrops veld in thick green foliage.
Our destination was the island of Koh Samui, or to be precise Na Thon Pier, a 11/2-hour boat ride across the Gulf of Thailand on a dilapidated old roll-on roll-off ferry.
Our destination was the island of Koh Samui, or to be precise Na Thon Pier, a 11/2-hour boat ride across the Gulf of Thailand on a dilapidated old roll-on roll-off ferry.
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| Na Thon, Koh Samui |
Apart from the repetitive drone of the ferries engines everything seemed so serene and beautiful.
Na Thon Pier, Koh Samui
A small town and fishing port Na Thon boasts about a dozen hotels, guesthouses or places with rooms to let. I stumbled on one such place only by virtue that it was the first place that I came across after getting off the boat. Called ‘Coffee Island’ a place, in hind site, I suspect of ill repute, certainly judging by the rather hard massage bed that I slept on and the constant comings and goings all night. There’s an incredible array of shops, restaurants and massage parlors, something of a recurring theme across the island.
Na Thon Pier, Koh Samui
A small town and fishing port Na Thon boasts about a dozen hotels, guesthouses or places with rooms to let. I stumbled on one such place only by virtue that it was the first place that I came across after getting off the boat. Called ‘Coffee Island’ a place, in hind site, I suspect of ill repute, certainly judging by the rather hard massage bed that I slept on and the constant comings and goings all night. There’s an incredible array of shops, restaurants and massage parlors, something of a recurring theme across the island.
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| Beach at Na Thon |
Koh Samui has about 100 kilometers of road linking the towns, it’s mountainous, covered with thick green fauna with an abundance of beautiful sandy beaches, some isolated.
The down side, the main towns of Chaweng and Lamai can be extraordinarily seedy after dark; a complete contrast to the four to five star image promoted by the Tourism industry, as the perfect place to rejuvenate oneself!
Trek and a days boat trip
After spending one night at ‘Coffee Island’ I moved a mile down the coast to a slighter more comfortable and secure establishment, staying a couple of days.
The down side, the main towns of Chaweng and Lamai can be extraordinarily seedy after dark; a complete contrast to the four to five star image promoted by the Tourism industry, as the perfect place to rejuvenate oneself!
Trek and a days boat trip
After spending one night at ‘Coffee Island’ I moved a mile down the coast to a slighter more comfortable and secure establishment, staying a couple of days.
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| Route to the 1st waterfall - 6km |
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| Lady that I met whilst trekking to the 1st falls |
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| 8km trek to the 2nd waterfall |
One of those days I spent trekking to two waterfalls and exploring one of the many beaches along the coast and the following day taking a boat trip to Anthong Marine Park.
Anthong Marine Park
There are 53 islands in the protected Anthong Marine National Park, just off the island of Koh Samui.
Anthong Marine Park
There are 53 islands in the protected Anthong Marine National Park, just off the island of Koh Samui.
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| On our way to the Anthong Marine Park |
The park forms a fabulous natural and beautiful water park for camping, sailing and diving enthusiasts with a host of private, largely uninhabited and secluded beaches.
Travelling buddies
Travelling buddies
In the photograph, two South Africans, Lloyd and Winita Piemaar, married two weeks previous, enjoying an extended tour of Anthong National Marine Park.
He’s a restaurateur in Johannesburg and she is about to set up an Internet business selling wedding dresses in South Africa made in China.
The island of Koh Phalaui
The photographs are of some of the islands from atop Ko Phalaui, one of the 53 that form the Anthong National Marine Park.
Ko Phalaui provides limited lodges, camping, a small café and some shops for what must be a great place to stay for a week or two.
The island of Koh Phalaui
The photographs are of some of the islands from atop Ko Phalaui, one of the 53 that form the Anthong National Marine Park.
Ko Phalaui provides limited lodges, camping, a small café and some shops for what must be a great place to stay for a week or two.
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| Views on the way to the top of Ko Phalaui |
It’s a fairly steep and difficult trek to the top; the last section a ‘hand-over-hand’ climb with a sheer drops 1,500m below to the sea, worth it though if only for the view.
After about an hour or so we moved on to Koh Mu, a beautiful island that boasts an elevated salt-water lake.
After about an hour or so we moved on to Koh Mu, a beautiful island that boasts an elevated salt-water lake.
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| Beach and lake on Koh Mu |
A flight of steep wooden steps lead up to a viewing platform overlooking the lake.
Travels continue
Sunday the 22nd I left Na Thon by local bus to the town of Lamai, one of the larger towns on the East coast.
Travels continue
Sunday the 22nd I left Na Thon by local bus to the town of Lamai, one of the larger towns on the East coast.
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| Lamai beach |
Comprising a low-rise town enveloped by a crescent of hills and fronting onto one of the best white sandy beaches that I have seen thus far in Thailand.
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| My accommodation in Lamai |
There’s a huge array of small hotels, guesthouses, lodges, restaurants, cafes, bars and shops spilling out onto the sandy beach. It’s much more basic than I had expected, somewhat of a surprise, although in a strange way endearing.
The seaside town of Lamai
The photos provide a perfect illustration of Lamai High Street, narrow, confused, too much going on to take-in and most buildings over two floors.
The seaside town of Lamai
The photos provide a perfect illustration of Lamai High Street, narrow, confused, too much going on to take-in and most buildings over two floors.
The hotels, rooms or bungalows to rent are scattered both sides and easily missed by the casual onlooker. Indian Taylor shops, bars, bike hire and massage parlors dominate the busy shopping area.
Infamous girlie bar scene
There must be 100 or so girlie bars in Lamai, invariable open to the elements, with one thing in common a strategically placed platform and pole where the ladies and lady boys gyrate until about 5.00am, enticing one and all to part with money for drinks amongst other things. It’s overwhelming when you see the spectacle for the first time.
Infamous girlie bar scene
There must be 100 or so girlie bars in Lamai, invariable open to the elements, with one thing in common a strategically placed platform and pole where the ladies and lady boys gyrate until about 5.00am, enticing one and all to part with money for drinks amongst other things. It’s overwhelming when you see the spectacle for the first time.
Often you’re enticed initially to buy a drink and play a simple board game, gravitating to a drink for the girl at 4 times the normal price, culminating in a night back at your hotel. There are some interesting and some not so interesting sites to see.
Lamai beach
There’s no shortage of good beaches around the Koh Samui coastline most are sandy, the water clear and there seems little sign of any crosscurrent to pull you out to sea. The area is renowned for excellent snorkeling and diving.
Most of the good spa hotels or bungalows face onto the beach with lots of bars and restaurants to keep one fed and watered, the weathers generally great to!
Thai open-air boxing ring
There are three open-air boxing arenas in the center of Lamai. Events are held most Saturdays for both men and women. About a dozen or so girlie bars with names, like ‘Love Shack’, ‘Honey Bar’ or ‘The Lover Bar’, surround the ring and are all set in the town square.
Lamai beach
There’s no shortage of good beaches around the Koh Samui coastline most are sandy, the water clear and there seems little sign of any crosscurrent to pull you out to sea. The area is renowned for excellent snorkeling and diving.
Most of the good spa hotels or bungalows face onto the beach with lots of bars and restaurants to keep one fed and watered, the weathers generally great to!
Thai open-air boxing ring
There are three open-air boxing arenas in the center of Lamai. Events are held most Saturdays for both men and women. About a dozen or so girlie bars with names, like ‘Love Shack’, ‘Honey Bar’ or ‘The Lover Bar’, surround the ring and are all set in the town square.
It seems an interesting contradiction having the events taking place in the same space, although perhaps both are vices. Clearly Thailand is much more liberal than we are.
The sites of Koh Samui
I decided to take an arranged-tour round the sites of Koh Samui one day with a group of fellow travellers, mainly Thai.
First port of call, a little way down the coast, the ‘Grandfather’ and ‘Grandmother’ rock hewn out of granite by the action of rain and the sea. Purported to represent the male and female genitalia, although I’ll let you be the judge of that.
The sites of Koh Samui
I decided to take an arranged-tour round the sites of Koh Samui one day with a group of fellow travellers, mainly Thai.
First port of call, a little way down the coast, the ‘Grandfather’ and ‘Grandmother’ rock hewn out of granite by the action of rain and the sea. Purported to represent the male and female genitalia, although I’ll let you be the judge of that.
More than likely it’s the result of a furtive and overactive imagination. Interestingly there is an historical myth linked to the two phenomena, well there would be wouldn’t there, possible to enhance interest and generate revenue for the huge accompanying market that has sprung up adjoining the site.
Mummified Monk
Next stop about a 10km drive inland to the site of the Mummified Monk. Its exactly as it would suggest, Phra Khru Samathakittikhan died 30 years ago and the revered monk refused to decompose.
Mummified Monk
Next stop about a 10km drive inland to the site of the Mummified Monk. Its exactly as it would suggest, Phra Khru Samathakittikhan died 30 years ago and the revered monk refused to decompose.
As the past head of the Wat Khunaram he had a lot of loyal followers. They decided to put him on display, sunglasses and all (bit like Arnie out of Terminator), in a rather elaborate sarcophagus.
Ban Thurian waterfall
Our third stop of the day, a further 15 kilometers inland, the mountainous heart of the island and the Ban Thurian waterfall.
Ban Thurian waterfall
Our third stop of the day, a further 15 kilometers inland, the mountainous heart of the island and the Ban Thurian waterfall.
It’s a steep mile walk up to the first tier of the 30m high waterfalls and an opportunity for a swim though.
Mid afternoon and the last part of the trip a 25km drive across the island to Chaweng first to Suwanaram Wat and finally to see the hill top Big Buddha.
Suwanaram Temple or Wat
One of the many buildings that form the grounds of the Suwanaram Wat, which include a 12-meter high male and separate female Chinese Buddha with sixteen arms, ornamental lake and several temples, all very elaborate in design and gaudy in colour scheme.
Mid afternoon and the last part of the trip a 25km drive across the island to Chaweng first to Suwanaram Wat and finally to see the hill top Big Buddha.
Suwanaram Temple or Wat
One of the many buildings that form the grounds of the Suwanaram Wat, which include a 12-meter high male and separate female Chinese Buddha with sixteen arms, ornamental lake and several temples, all very elaborate in design and gaudy in colour scheme.
The Suwanaram Wat, one of the temples of which is fashioned like an Ark as in the bible, is in the North of the island near the town of Chaweng.
Big Buddha
What can I add, apart from the fact that it’s big, gold, about 12 meters high and atop a hill overlooking the beautiful bay of Bo Phut with distant views of the island of Koh Pha-Ngan.
Big Buddha
What can I add, apart from the fact that it’s big, gold, about 12 meters high and atop a hill overlooking the beautiful bay of Bo Phut with distant views of the island of Koh Pha-Ngan.
There are 75 steps to the top of the hill and a covered viewing platform surrounds the icon. The Wat, various buildings, shops and village are set on a peninsula close to the town of Chaweng to the North of the island.
Oddly enough it’s probably one of the first and last things that you see as you land at Koh Samui airport.
After spending several enjoyable days lounging by the beach and exploring the sites of Lamai I decided to move onto to Bo Phut, west of the town of Chaweng primarily to try my hand at diving.
First open water dive
I’ve always wanted to dive and gain a PADI Open Water Certificate, it’s one of those; ‘things to do before you die’ and what better place than Koh Samui.
The speedboat, would take us to the island of Koh Tao, purported to provide the best diving conditions in the Gulf of Thailand, for a trial dive or two before enrolling. The island itself is comparatively isolated, quiet and the waters clear.
Mode of transport to Koh Tao
Pictured below the ‘Coral Grand’, it has three 750cc engines strapped to the back and capable of 35 knots over open water.
We headed to Koh Tao, about an hour and half away, with twenty-two divers, a number of instructors and crew on board, passing a large school of Pilot Whales along the way, although they’re very difficult to photograph.
Hotel on Koh Tao
If you’re looking for peace, isolation, a romantic week or two somewhere hot with quiet secluded beaches, excellent swimming, snorkeling or diving conditions then look no further then Mango Beach, Koh Tao, it has it all.
Planes fly from Bangkok to Chaweng (Koh Samui) airport, about £80 one way, it’s then a hour and a half speed boat ride to one of the many hotels on the island.
My first two dives where solo with a Scottish dive instructor. The first off the sandy beach at Mango Bay descending to about 13 meters to a huge granite outcrop towering above us and in perfect visibility. The second off the back of the boat at lighthouse point.
Idyllic islands of Koh Tao
The diving conditions were absolutely perfect on the day. The instructor and I carried out two 50-minute open water dives, with an hour between, descending to about 13 meters. Diving is an extraordinarily experience, the colour, diversity of life, the variety of coral that appear to smother or envelope the rock formations. It’s also a privilege being so close to an environment that we still know so little about.
Great time in Chaweng
Photographs of the Muay Thai boxing ring at the Samui Stadium. There were six bouts on the night, with weight categories ranging from 85kg up to 150kg.
Three of the bouts involved an Australian, English and Brazilian competitor. Competitors wear boxing gloves other than that they box in bare feet. Moves involve kicks to the body, head or legs and punches to the body or head.
All Thai bout - fast and furious!!
The elbow can be used in a downward stabbing motion to the top of the head or shoulders; the knee is used in close contact mainly to the opponent’s rib cage and you are allowed to grapple an opponent to the ground.
In other words anything goes!! The arms and hands are used in the same way as in traditional boxing to block or parry an opponent’s move.
Evening market in Bo Phut
Bo Phut used to be a Fishing Village taken over now by tourism. There is a reasonable selection of hotels or apartments to rent, a little pricey though, a good array of shops and a huge selection of restaurants from traditional Thai, Indian, English, Italian and Moroccan.
The streets are narrow and the houses are old Thai style the beach is adequate although narrow and lacking a little in facilities.
Big Buddha beach
Big Buddha beach and in the distance Koh Pha-Ngan, the island is very similar to Koh Tao although much larger.
It’s another one of those idyllic settings with most of the habitation on one side and remote lodges, bungalows and hotels on the other. The mountainous interior is largely uninhabitable with no roads and covered with thick impenetrable tropical vegetation. Access is via a boat either from Koh Samui, Koh Tao or the mainland.
Successful month
I spent a further two days practicing skills in the pool along with two dives in Open Water with a great Australian guy to a depth of 20 meters to qualify for my PADI certificate, the next goal the Advance PADI course.
My Australian instructor blurted out one day that after a drinking session, he's a bit of a light-weight drinker so he said, he spent the night with a lady boy. For the next few days he tried to convince me of the merits of the experience!
Another bit of good news I managed to complete the first part of the OU Geology degree achieving an average mark of 91%.
My plans now are to move back to the mainland and head initially to Khao Sok National Park.
In the long term, I’ve decided to spend time in the National Park, Phuket, Krabi and the islands in the Andaman Sea before making my way back to Cha-Am to pick up my spare luggage, head to Bangkok for a week staying with the Rung family before heading to the border with Cambodia.
My intention is to volunteer my services as a teacher in Cambodia or perhaps gain a job in the capital city. Obtaining a visa and work permit is much easy there and at least I can gain some experiencing.
Oddly enough it’s probably one of the first and last things that you see as you land at Koh Samui airport.
After spending several enjoyable days lounging by the beach and exploring the sites of Lamai I decided to move onto to Bo Phut, west of the town of Chaweng primarily to try my hand at diving.
First open water dive
I’ve always wanted to dive and gain a PADI Open Water Certificate, it’s one of those; ‘things to do before you die’ and what better place than Koh Samui.
Mode of transport to Koh Tao
Pictured below the ‘Coral Grand’, it has three 750cc engines strapped to the back and capable of 35 knots over open water.
Hotel on Koh Tao
If you’re looking for peace, isolation, a romantic week or two somewhere hot with quiet secluded beaches, excellent swimming, snorkeling or diving conditions then look no further then Mango Beach, Koh Tao, it has it all.
Planes fly from Bangkok to Chaweng (Koh Samui) airport, about £80 one way, it’s then a hour and a half speed boat ride to one of the many hotels on the island.
Idyllic islands of Koh Tao
The diving conditions were absolutely perfect on the day. The instructor and I carried out two 50-minute open water dives, with an hour between, descending to about 13 meters. Diving is an extraordinarily experience, the colour, diversity of life, the variety of coral that appear to smother or envelope the rock formations. It’s also a privilege being so close to an environment that we still know so little about.
Great time in Chaweng
Photographs of the Muay Thai boxing ring at the Samui Stadium. There were six bouts on the night, with weight categories ranging from 85kg up to 150kg.
All Thai bout - fast and furious!!
The elbow can be used in a downward stabbing motion to the top of the head or shoulders; the knee is used in close contact mainly to the opponent’s rib cage and you are allowed to grapple an opponent to the ground.
Evening market in Bo Phut
Bo Phut used to be a Fishing Village taken over now by tourism. There is a reasonable selection of hotels or apartments to rent, a little pricey though, a good array of shops and a huge selection of restaurants from traditional Thai, Indian, English, Italian and Moroccan.
Big Buddha beach
Big Buddha beach and in the distance Koh Pha-Ngan, the island is very similar to Koh Tao although much larger.
Successful month
I spent a further two days practicing skills in the pool along with two dives in Open Water with a great Australian guy to a depth of 20 meters to qualify for my PADI certificate, the next goal the Advance PADI course.
My Australian instructor blurted out one day that after a drinking session, he's a bit of a light-weight drinker so he said, he spent the night with a lady boy. For the next few days he tried to convince me of the merits of the experience!
Another bit of good news I managed to complete the first part of the OU Geology degree achieving an average mark of 91%.
My plans now are to move back to the mainland and head initially to Khao Sok National Park.
In the long term, I’ve decided to spend time in the National Park, Phuket, Krabi and the islands in the Andaman Sea before making my way back to Cha-Am to pick up my spare luggage, head to Bangkok for a week staying with the Rung family before heading to the border with Cambodia.
My intention is to volunteer my services as a teacher in Cambodia or perhaps gain a job in the capital city. Obtaining a visa and work permit is much easy there and at least I can gain some experiencing.
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